BEAR AMIGURUMI FREE PATTERN

Hello amigurumi lovers and beautiful visitors, I wanted to share the free amigurumi patterns for you here. In my article I will share 1 pattern and how to make it for you. At the end of my article, I will share amigurumi patterns that can generate ideas for you.

Legend:

Ch – air loop

MR – amigurumi ring

İnc – increase

Dec – decrease

Sc – single crochet

Hdc double crochet

Dc double crochet

Materials

The bear is knitted of Alize Angora Real 40 yarn (wool 40%, acrylic 60%)

B 100gr-480m

Hook 1.25.

The bear is knitted in one piece from the feet to the crown.

It is imperative to use a frame so that the toy holds

shape, and most importantly the head because the bear’s neck is very thin.

LEGS-BODY

We start knitting from the feet. The marker runs strictly behind the leg.

Left leg

9 Ch

We start knitting in the second loop of the chain.

1p-7Sc., 3Sc in one loop, on the other side of the chain 6Sc., İnc = 18p

2p-İnc., 6Sc., İnc.х3,6Sc., İnc.х2 = 24p

3p-1Sc., İnc., 6Hdc., (1Sc., İnc) x3.6Hdc., (1Sc., İnc) x2 = 30p

4p-İnc., 4Hdc., 8Dc., İnc.Dcх3., 8Dc., 4Hdc., İncх2 = 36p

5p-7p -36Sc (3 rows)

8p- (4Sc., Dec) x6 = 30p

9p-30Sc

10p- (3Sc., Dec) x6 = 24p + 1 offset loop

11p-3Sc., (1Sc., Dec) x6., 3Sc., = 18p

Start stuffing your foot. Do not stuff the sock too much, there will be tightening

for fingers.

Now cut off a piece of wire (I have 35cm), make a loop, insert it into

tap the foot and around the wire with padding.

12p-3Sc., Dec.x6., 3Sc., = 12p

13r-17r-12Sc (5 rows)

18p-10Sc, 2Sc leave, do not tie to the end of the row.

When we connect with the right leg, then these two loops will be the first loops.

We tear off the thread. Fill.

Right leg

9 Ch

We start knitting in the second loop of the chain.

1p-7Sc., 3Sc in one loop, on the other side of the chain 6Sc., İnc. = 18p

2p-İnc., 6Sc., İnc.х3,6Sc., İnc.х2 = 24p

3p-1Sc., İnc., 6Hdc., (1Sc., İnc) x3.6Hdc., (1Sc., İnc) x2 = 30p

4p-İnc., 4Hdc., 8Dc., İnc.Dcх3., 8Dc., 4Hdc., İncх2 = 36p

5p-7p -36Sc (3 rows)

8p- (4Sc., Dec) x6 = 30p

9p-30Sc

10p- (3Sc., Dec) x6 = 24p + 1 offset loop

11p-3Sc., (1Sc., Dec) x6., 3Sc., = 18p

Start stuffing your foot. Do not stuff the sock too much, there will be tightening for fingers.

Now cut off a piece of wire (I have 35cm), make a loop, insert it into tap the foot and around the wire with padding.

12p-3Sc., Dec.x6., 3Sc., = 12p

13p-18p-12Sc (6 rows) we make 2 offset loops Fill.

We do not tear off the thread, we continue knitting.

Next, we will connect the legs together and into the body.

Body.

19p-3Sc on the right leg, 6 Ch, now take the left leg and start

 knitting from the remaining untied stitches 12Sc. on the left leg,

 6Sc. after Ch., 9Sc. on the right leg.

20p- 3Sc., 6Sc. on Ch., 3Sc., (İnc., 1Sc) х3., 12Sc.- (3Sc on the left

 leg + 6Sc along the chain from Ch., + 3Sc. on the right leg = 12Sc).,

 (1Sc., İnc.) X3 = 42p

After row 20, the thread should be in the center of the right leg, behind.

About the wire.

Twist two wires from the legs together, but twist only the length of the body plus the neck, in the head two wires should be separate.

21r-22r-42Sc (2 rows)

23р-4Sc., İnch6., (İncavki for priests), 12Sc., (İnc., 1Sc) x6., (Increments for

 tummy), 8Sc. = 54p

24p-26r-54Sc. (3rd row)

27p- (8Sc., İnc) x6 = 60p

28p-60Sc

29p-5Sc., İnc., (9Sc., İnc) х5,4Sc. = 66p

30r-37r-66Sc (8 rows)

38p-40Sc., (Dec., 1Sc) x6., 8Sc. = 60p decreases in the middle of the tummy

39p-60Sc

40p-35Sc., (Dec., 1Sc) x6., 7Sc. = 54p decreases in the middle of the tummy

41r-43r-54Sc (3 rows)

44p- (3Sc., Dec) x6., 24Sc. = 48p

We begin to stuff the body and then, as the body knits, continue stuffing.

45r-46r- 48Sc.

47p- (6Sc., Dec.) X6 = 42p

48p-42Sc.

49p- (5Sc., Dec) x6 = 36p

50p-36Sc.

51p- (4Sc., Dec) x6 = 30p

52p-30Sc.

53p- (3Sc., Dec) x6 = 24p

54p- (2Sc., Dec) x6 = 18p

55p-18Sc fill to the end

Neck.

56p-Dec.x9 = 9p

57r-58r-9Sc. (2 rows)

Let’s move on to knitting the head.

Head.

59p-İncx9 = 18p.

60p- (2Sc., İnc) x6 = 24p.

61p- (3Sc., İnc) x6 = 30p.

62p- (4Sc., İnc) x6 = 36p.

63p- (5Sc., İnc) x6 = 42p.

64p- (6Sc., İnc) x6 = 48p.

65p- (7Sc., İnc) x6 = 54p.

66p- (8Sc., İnc) x6 = 60p.

67p- (9Sc., İnc) x6 = 66p.

68p- (10Sc., İnc) x6 = 72p.

69p- (11Sc., İnc) x6 = 78p.

70p- (12Sc., İnc) x6 = 84p.

71r-78r-84Sc. (8 rows)

Make such a structure from wire as in the photo, this is for stability

bear heads. The head is large on a thin neck. Will help the same

bend the head to the sides.

From this point on, you can gradually and carefully fill your head.

The wire should not touch the head, but be inside it. And around

wire packing.

It is better to start stuffing in small lumps, so that gradually

fill the entire head space.

79p-6Sc., Dec., (12Sc., Dec) x5., 6Sc = 78p.

80p-78Sc.

81p- (11Sc., Dec) x6 = 72p.

82p-72Sc.

83р-5Sc., Dec., (10Sc., Dec) х5., 5Sc = 66p.

84p-66Sc.

85p- (9Sc., Dec) x6 = 60p.

86p-60Sc.

87p-4Sc., Dec., (8Sc., Dec) x5., 4Sc = 54p.

88p-54Sc.

89p- (7Sc., Dec) x6 = 48p.

90p-48Sc.

91p-3Sc., Dec., (6Sc., Dec) x5., 3Sc = 42p.

92p-42Sc.

93p- (5Sc., Dec) x6 = 36p.

94p-2Sc., Dec., (4Sc., Dec) x5., 2Sc = 30p.

95p- (3Sc., Dec) x6 = 24p.

96р-1Sc., Dec., (2Sc., Dec) х5., 1Sc = 18p.

97p- (1Sc., Dec) x6 = 12p to fill

98p-Decx6.

Hands. (2 parts)

1p-6Sc. in MR

2p-İnc.x6 = 12p

3p- (1Sc, İnc.) X6 = 18p

4p- (2Sc, İnc.) X6 = 24p

5p-8p-24Sc. (4 rows)

9p- (2Sc., Dec) x6 = 18p

10p-11p- 18Sc. (2 rows)

12p- (1Sc., Dec) x6 = 12p Fill the palm, but very weakly, so that later you can

was on it to pull your fingers.

13p-30p- 12Sc (18 rows)

Now you need to cut off a piece of wire so that it sticks out of the handle by 1.5-2 cm longer, but insert the wire only after tightening your fingers.

Flatten the palm and embroider two stitches for the fingers, slightly tightening. Fill the handle a little.

Muzzle.

(from finishing yarn)

3 Ch

We knit in rotary rows, at the end of each row we make Ch

We start with the second loop of the chain

1p-İnc.x2 = 4Sc Ch turn

2p-İnc., 2Sc., İnc. = 6Sc Ch turn

3p-İnc., 4Sc., İnc. = 8Sc Ch turn

4p-İnc., 6Sc., İnc. = 10Sc Ch turn

5p-İnc., 8Sc., İnc. = 12Sc Ch turn

6p-İnc., 10Sc., İnc. = 14Sc Ch turn

7p-16p- 14Sc (10 rows) Ch turn

17p-Dec., 10Sc., Dec. = 12Sc Ch turn

18p-Dec., 8Sc., Dec. = 10Sc Ch turn

19p-Dec., 6Sc., Dec. = 8Sc Ch turn

20p-Dec., 4Sc., Dec. = 6Sc Ch turn

21p-Dec., 2Sc., Dec. = 4Sc Ch turn

22p-Dec.x2 = 2Sc without turning,

tie the entire muzzle around the perimeter with 2 rows of Sc.

Ears. (2 parts)

1p-6Sc. in MR

2p-İnc.x6 = 12p

3p- (1Sc, İnc.) X6 = 18p

4p- (2Sc, İnc.) X6 = 24p

5p- (3Sc, İnc.) X6 = 30p

6p-9p-30Sc. (4 rows)

Fold the ear in half and tie the bottom edge in two layers with 15Sc.

Inner eyelet.

(from finishing yarn) 2 parts.

9 Ch

Knit in pivoting rows, at the end of the row do Ch

We start knitting from the second loop of the chain.

1p-3p-8Sc., (3 rows) Ch turn

4p-Dec., 4Sc., Dec. = 6Sc Ch turn

5p-Dec., 2Sc., Dec. = 4Sc thread break

Sew the eyelet neatly into the main ear.

The inner eyelet can be cut out of fabric.

Belly pad.

(from finishing yarn) 1 piece.

1p-6Sc. in MR

2p-İnc.x6 = 12p

3p- (1Sc, İnc.) X6 = 18p

4p- (2Sc, İnc.) X6 = 24p

5p- (3Sc, İnc.) X6 = 30p

6p- (4Sc, İnc.) X6 = 36p

Break the thread.

Assembly.

Before starting the assembly, you need to comb all the parts. Can Velcro, you can use a slicker.

Comb very carefully so as not to change the shape of the parts.

Colored pins can be inserted in the center of the tummy and in the center of the head, so that when assembling, you orient yourself and arrange the bear symmetrically.

You can immediately sew the patch on the tummy, this will also help to determine with the center of the bear shape.

Sew on the muzzle, be sure to add filler, but not much to the muzzle did not stick out forward, but, as it were, protruded slightly forward. It located not in the center of the head, but much downward. Somewhere from row 65 (or through 6 rows from the neck) and up.

Sew on the ears. The bear’s head is not round, and you can see how there are places for ears.

Make a small eye tighten. To do this, insert the needle behind the head at neck and withdraw into the first eye, tighten a little, return, then from the neck withdraw into the second eye and back to the neck. Tighten slightly and fasten the thread.

And because our eyes will be located very close to each other, then we can with one stitch to capture the entire area intended for the eyes, and slightly pull, do not pull strongly, otherwise they may look like they have failed.

This option will deepen the eyes evenly.

Choose the nose and eyes at your discretion. But it is better that the nose is not small, I have a length of 2.5 cm If there is no nozzle suitable for the size, it is easy to make it out of plastic or dump it, but you can find a button and cover it with a cloth. There are many options.

Place the eyes just above the muzzle and very close to each other.

Stick the handles with a protruding wire into the body on the sides in the region of 49-50 rows,

sew on. Make sure your arms are symmetrical.

Sew on the tummy on the most convex part of the belly, a drop add filler.

Embroider a smile and eyebrows. Embroider a smile in one thread so that it is so not very noticeable, but the eyebrows are better in two strings. Embroider the same fingers and toes.

You can tint the bear a little – cheeks, eyebrows.

Cut several threads from the main yarn and string them on the crown heads (where we closed the last loops) as we string the fringe.

Cut to desired length and fluff. It will be a forelock.

The bear can be made with a felted muzzle and a felted nose. Eyes made of plastic. Sew on patches.

The bear is ready. And you can decorate it as you wish.

Author: admin

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *