Legend:
sc = single crochet
ch = chain stitch
ss = connecting stitch
dc = double crochet
(#) = number of stitches in row

Boot (2 parts)
Row 1: with a black thread 6 ch, starting from the second loop we knit 4 sbn, 3bn in the last loop. Turn and continue on the opposite side of the initial chain: 3 sc, 3 sc in the last loop (13)
Row 2: 4 sc, 3 increases, 3 sc, 3 increases (19)
Row 3: 6 sc, 3 increases, 7 sc, 3 inc (25)
Row 4: work double crochets behind the back walls of the loops (25)
Row: 5-6: sc in a circle (25)
Row 7: 4 sc, 6 decreases, 9 sc (19)
Row 8: 3 sc , 4 decreases, 8 sc (15)
Row 9-10: sc in a circle (15)
Row 11: Pin the back wall of the next loop, then the connecting column behind the front wall of the same loop, 1 ch. Next, we knit half-columns with a crochet only for the front walls of the loops, we finish the circle with a connecting column (15)
Fasten the thread and thread the end of the thread.

Leg (2 parts)
Slightly turn the cuff of the boot inside out. We attach the thread of the color of the overalls to the back wall of the loop of the 11th row.
Row 1-7: Sc in round (15)
Fasten off and leave a long end to sew up the gap between the legs. Count back 4 sc and mark the 4th loop with a pin. Stuff the detail.
Knit the second leg, stuff, but do not fasten the thread, 2 sl-st, mark the last stob as the end of the row.

Body
We continue to knit from the second leg in a circle (later we attach the first leg).
Row 1: Ch 2, sc in first leg marked with a pin, 14 sc. ch 3, 15 sc in the second leg (35)
Row 2: sc in each ch of the previous row (= 2 sc), 15 sc, 3 increases, 15 sc (38)
Row 3: 17 sc, (2 sc, increase) – 2 times, 15 sbn (40)
Row 4: (4 sbn, increase) – 8 times (48)
Using the thread that you left at the end of the first leg, sew up the gap between the legs.
Row 5-7: Sc in a circle (48)
Row 8: (6 sc, decrease) – 6 times (42)
Row 9: Sc in a circle (42) Row
10: (5 sc, decrease) – 6 times (36)
Row 11: Sc in a circle (36)
Row 12: (4 sc, decrease) – 6 times (30)
Row 13: Sc in a circle (30)
Row 14: (3 sc, decrease) – 6 times (24)
Stuff the piece.
Row 15-20: Sc in a circle (24)
Row 21: (2 sc, decrease) – 6 times (18)
Stuff.
Row 22: (1 sbn, decrease) – 6 times (12)
Row 23-30: sbn in a circle (12)
Stuff the neck very tightly so that it can support the weight of the head.
Row 31: 6 decreases.
Fasten the thread. Pull the end of the thread through the front loops in a circle and pull tight. Fill in the remaining end.

Hands (2 parts) Row 1: skin-colored thread 6 sc in the amigurumi ring (6) Row 2: 6 increases (12) Row 3: (1 sc, increase) – 6 times (18) Row 4-5: sc in a circle (18)

Row 6: Lush 4 dc (4 dc in one loop and with one top), decrease, (1 sc, decrease) – 5 times (12) Row 7: sc in a circle (12) Change yarn to the color of the
overalls
Row
8 -12: sc in a circle (12)
Row 13: (2 sc, decrease) – 3 times (9)
Row 14-21: sc in a circle (9)
Row 22: 4 decreases, 1 sc (5)
Secure the thread. Pull the end of the thread through the front loops in a circle and pull tight. Fill in the remaining end.

Head
Before you start knitting the head, cut out two circles from white felt. These circles are intended for the peephole and should be slightly larger than the pupils (as the pupils, the author uses screwed eyes, the so-called safety eyes, you can see how they look in this post .). Insert the safety eyes into the white felt circles (you need to make a small hole in the middle) and set aside for now.
Row 1: 8 sc in the amigurumi ring
Row 2: 8 increases (16)
Row 3: (sc, increase) – 8 times (24)
Row 4: (2 sc, increase) – 8 times (32)
Row 5: (3 sbn, increase) – 8 times (40)
Row 6: (4 sbn, increase) – 8 times (48)
Row 7: (5 sbn, increase) – 8 times (56)
Row 8-17: sbn in a circle (56 )
Row 18: (5 sbn, decrease) – 8 times (48)
Row 19: (4 sbn, decrease) – 8 times (40)
Row 20: (3 sbn, decrease) – 8 times (32)
Row 21: (2 PRS, decrease) – 8 times (24)
Insert the eyes (already collected) into the head between 15 and 16 rows at a distance of 9 PRS from each other. Fasten them.
Row 22: Dec 12 (12).
Fasten the thread, leave a long end. Stuff the head, but not so tightly that you can then insert the neck inside.
Embroider eyelashes as shown in the picture.

Nose
Sew 3 straight lines (3 stitches) 3 sc between rows 16 and 17 of the head.

Hair
The hair is knitted in elongated loops about 15-16 cm long. We will knit in turn: one row with elongated loops, the other with simple sc, etc. As a result, we get a wig that we sew to the head. The loops will be cut, hairs will turn out.
Row 1: with yellow yarn 8 sc in the amigurumi ring (8)
Row 2: we knit with elongated loops: 2 in each sc (16)
Row 3: (1 sc, increase) – 8 times (24)
Row 4: we knit with elongated loops: (2 sbn, increase) – 8 times (32)
Row 5: (3 sbn, increase) – 8 times (40)
Row 6: knit with elongated loops: (4 sbn, increase) – 8 times (48)
Row 7: ( 5 sbn, increase) – 8 times (56)
Row 8: knit with elongated loops: 56 in a circle.
Fasten the thread, leave a long end for sewing. Pin the wig to the head with pins and sew, cut the loops and make a hairstyle.

Attachıng the head to the body
Follow the instructions in the picture below while sewing the head to the body.

CAP Ribbon is knitted in small rows with turns Row 1: with red yarn cast on 5 ch, from the 2nd loop knit 4 sc, ch, turn (4) Row 2: 4 sc, ch, turn (4) Row 3: with green yarn behind the back walls of the loops 4 sc, ch 1, turn (4) Row 4: 4 sc, ch, turn (4) Row 5: with red yarn behind the back walls of the loops 4 sc, ch 1, turn (4) Row 6: 4 sc, ch, turn (4) Next, repeat rows 3 to 6 until you have 30 strips (each strip = 2 rows). [adrotate group=”5″] We connect a strip of elastic into a ring with connecting posts and then knit in a circle along the edge of the elastic.

Row 1: With red yarn ch 1, 60 sc in each row of elastic, sl-st (60)
Row 2: ch 3, 60 dc, sl-st
Row 3: ch 3, (8 dc, decrease) – 6 times (54 dc), sl-st
Row 4: 3 ch, 54 dc, sl-
st Row 5: 3 ch, (7 dc, decrease) – 6 times (48 dc), sl-st
Row 6: 3 ch, 48 dc, sl-st
Row 7: 3 ch, (6 dc , decrease) – 6 times (42 dc), sl-
st Row 8: 3 ch, 42 dc, sl-
st Row 9: 3 ch, (5 dc, decrease) – 6 times = 36 dc, sl-st
Row 10-12: 3 ch, 36 dc, sl-st
Row 13: 3 ch, (4 dc, decrease) – 6 times (30 dc), sl-st
Row 14-16: 3 ch, 30 dc, sl-st
Row 17: 3 ch, (3 dc, decrease) – 6 times (24 dc), sl-
st Row 18-20: 3 ch, 24 dc, sl-st
Row 21: 3 ch, (2 dc, decrease) – 6 times (18 dc), sl-st
Row 22: 3 ch, 18 dc, sl-st
Row 23: 3 ch, (1 dc, decrease) – 6 times (12 dc), sl-st
Row 24: 3 ch, 12 dc, sl-st
Row 25: 3 ch, (decrease) – 6 times (6 dc), sl-st
Cut thread and thread the end. Make a pom pom with green yarn.
It remains to sew handles and buttons on the jumpsuit and the knitted amigurumi elf is ready! Dress up our elves and post pictures in the comments!!!

Materials

1 YarnArt jeans color 52 (green)
2 YarnArt jeans color 05 (beige)
3 YarnArt jeans color 47 (red)
4 YarnArt jeans color 40 (brown)
5 YarnArt jeans color 62 (white)
6 YarnArt jeans color 84 (mustard, for a scarf)
7 Hook (I use 1,5)
8 Eyes on safety mount I2 mm
9 Filler

Abbreviations

MR: Amigurumi Magic ring
sc : Single Crochet
inc : Increase
dec : Decrease
tr : Triple Crochet/ Treble Crochet
st: Stitch
dc : Double Crochet
hdc: Half Double Crochet
slst : Slip Stitch
ch : Chain
..in : make increase into same stitch as many as the number which is given in front of “inc” abbreviation (exp; 3inc, 4inc..).
FLO : Crochet into front loops only
BLO : Crochet into back loops only

Body and Head

Start in red
Rnd 1 6 sc in MR
Rnd 2 6 inc (12)
Rnd 3 (sc, inc) *6 (18)
Rnd 4 (2 сб, inc)*6 (24)
Rnd 5 (3 sc, inc) *6 (30)
Rnd 6 (4 sc, inc)*6 (36)
Rnd 7 (5 sc, inc) *6 (42)
Rnd 8 (6 sc, inc)*6 (48)

Rnd 9 (7 sc, inc) *6 (54)
Rnd 10 (8 sc, inc)*6 (60)
Rnd 11-17 60 sc (7 rows)
Rnd 18 change to white 60 sc
Rnd 19 (18 sc, dec)*3 (57)
Rnd 20 change to red 57 sc
Rnd 21 (17 sc, dec)*3 (54)
Rnd 22 change to white 54 sc
Rnd 23 (16 sc, dec)*3 (51)
Rnd 24 change to red 51 sc
Rnd 25 (15 sc, dec) *3 (48)

Rnd 26 change to white 48 sc
Rnd 27 (14 sc, dec) *3 (45)
Rnd 28 change to red 45 sc
Rnd 29 (13 sc, dec) *3 (42)
Rnd 30 change to white 42 sc
Rnd 31 (12 sc, dec) *3 (39)
Rnd 32 change to red 39 sc
Rnd 33 (12 sc, dec) *3 (36)
Rnd 34 change to white 36 sc
Rnd 35 (4 sc, dec) *6 (30)
Rnd 36 change to red 30 sc
Rnd 37 (3 sc, dec) *6 (24)

Go to flesh color
Rnd 38 24 sc BLO
Rnd 39 24 inc (48)
Rnd 40 (7 sc, inc) *6 (54)
Rnd 41 4 sc, inc, (8 sc, inc) *5, 4 sc (60)
Rnd 42 (9 sc, inc) *6 (66)
Rnd 43 5 sc, inc, (10 sc, inc) *5, 5 sc (72)
Rnd 44 (11 sc, inc) *6 (78)
Rnd 45 6 sc, inc, (12 sc, inc) *5, 6 sc (84)
Rnd 46 -60 84 sc (15 rows)

Set eyes between 49-50 rows, distance between eyes 18 sc embroider spout
Rnd 61 (12 sc, dec)*6 (78)
Rnd 62 (11 sc, dec)*6 (72)
Rnd 63 (10 sc, dec)*6 (66)
Rnd 64 (9 sc, dec)*6 (60)
Rnd 65 (8 sc, dec)*6 (54)
Rnd 66 (7 sc, dec)*6 (48)
Rnd 67 (6 sc, dec)*6 (42)
Rnd 68 (5 sc, dec)*6 (36)
Rnd 69 (4 sc, dec)*6 (30)
Rnd 70 (3 sc, dec)*6 (24)
Rnd 71 (2 sc, dec)*6 (18)
Rnd 72 (sc, dec)*6 (12)
Rnd 73 6 dec (6)
Tighten the hole, hide the thread.

Hair

Brown
Rnd 1 б sc in MR
Rnd 2 6 inc (12)
Rnd 3 (sc, inc) *6 (18)
Rnd 4 (2 sc, inc) *6 (24)
Rnd 5 (3 sc, inc) *6 (30)
Rnd 6 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) *5, 2 sc (36)
Rnd 7 (5 sc, inc) *6 (42)
Rnd 8 3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc) *5, 3 sc (48)
Rnd 9 (7 sc, inc) *6 (54)
Rnd 10 4 sc, inc, (8 sc, inc) *5, 4 sc (60)
Rnd 11 (9 sc, inc) *6 (66)
Rnd 12 5 sc, inc, (10 sc, inc) *5, 5 sc (72)
Rnd 13 (11 sc, inc) *6 (78)
Rnd 14 6 sc, inc, (12 sc, inc) *6 (84)
Rnd 15-26 84 sc (12 rows)
Dial from the last loop 7 ch,
6 sc and attach sc to base, repeat 42 times.

Ears (make 2)

Rnd 1 6 sc in MR
Rnd 2 6 sc
Rnd 3 6 inc (I2)
Rnd 4 12 sc
Rnd 5 (sc, inc) *6 (I8)
Rnd 6 18 sc
Rnd 7 (2 sc, inc) *6 (24)
Rnd 8-11 24 sc (4 rows)
Rnd 12 (2 sc, dec)*6 (I8)
Rnd 13 (sc, dec)*6 (12)
Crochet 6 sc for both walls, fold the ears into place and fasten 2 slst thread fix and leave for sewing

Arms (Make 2)

Rnd 1 in red 6 sc in MR
Rnd 2 6 inc (12)
Rnd 3 (sc, inc) *6 (18)
Rnd 4-5 18 sc (2 rows)
For the right hand
Rnd 6 12 sc,5 dc single loop with one base (lump), 5 sc (18) left hand 6 6 sc, lump, 11 sc (18)
Rnd 7-8 18 sc (2 rows)
Rnd 9 (sc, dec) *6 (12)
Rnd 10-11 12 sc (2 rows)

Change to white 12-1З 12 sc (2 rows)
Change to red 14-15 12 sc (2 rows)
Change to white 16-17 12 sc (2 rows)
Change to red 18-19 12 sc (2 rows)
Change to white 20-21 12 sc (2 rows)
Change to red 22-23 12 sc (2 rows)
Change to white 24-25 12 sc (2 rows)
Change to red 26-27 12 sc (2 rows)
Change to white 28 12 sc
Fix the thread and leave for sewing.

Legs (make 2)

Rnd 1 red in sc in MR
Rnd 2 6 inc (12)
Rnd 3-10 12 sc (8 rows)
Change to beige
Rnd 11-18 12 sc (8 rows)
Red
Rnd 19-25 12 sc (7 rows)
Fold and knit by both sides 5 sc fix the thread and leave for sewing.

Overalls

We make 66 ch in green, connect the chain in a circle, see that the chain does not twist
Rnd 1-18 66 sc (18 rows)
Divide knitting into 4 parts, set a marker, retreat 18 sc, set a marker, retreat 15 sc, set a marker, retreat 18 sc, set a marker.
(Where 15 columns are the front and back, and where 18 are the legs)
connect sc with the first marked marker and form a pant leg
Rnd 19–21 18 sc (3 rows) fix the thread
attach yarn to 16 sc and knit 15 sc on both legs to marker, form second leg
Rnd 19-21 18 sc (3 rows)
counting from the front in the middle 16 sc and knit 7 rows in pivoting rows, we make 33 ch at the edges

Hat

Rnd 1 green 6 sc in MR
Rnd 2 (sc, inc)*3 (9)
Rnd 3 9 sc
Rnd 4 (2 sc, inc)*3 (12)
Rnd 5 12 sc
Rnd 6 (3 sc, inc)*3 (15)
Rnd 7 15 sc
Rnd 8 (4 sc, inc)*3 (18)
Rnd 9 red 18 sc
Rnd 10 green (5 sc, inc)*3 (2I)
Rnd 11 21 sc
Rnd 12 (6 sc, по)*3 (24)
Rnd 13 24 sc
Rnd 14 (7 sc, inc)*3 (27)
Rnd 15 red 27 sc
Rnd 16 green (8 sc,inc)*3 (30)
Rnd 17 30 sc
Rnd 18 (9 sc, inc) (33)
Rnd 19 33 sc
Rnd 20 (10 sc, inc)*3 (36)
Rnd 21 red 36 sc
Rnd 22 green (11 sc,inc)*3 (39)
Rnd 23 39 sc
Rnd 24 (12 sc, inc)*3 (42)

Rnd 25 42 sc
Rnd 26 (13 sc, inc)*3 (45)
Rnd 27 red 45 sc
Rnd 28 green (14 sc, inc)*3 (48)
Rnd 29 48 sc
Rnd 30 (15 sc, inc)*3 (51)
Rnd 31 51 sc
Rnd 32 (16 sc, inc)*3 (54)
Rnd 33 red 54 sc
Rnd 34 green (17 sc, inc)*3 (57)
Rnd 35 57 sc
Rnd 36 (18 sc, inc)*3 (60)
Rnd 37 60 sc
Rnd 38 (19 sc, inc)*3 (63)
Rnd 39 red 63 sc
Rnd 40 green (20 sc, inc)*3 (66)
Rnd 41 66 sc
Rnd 42 (21 sc, inc)*3 (69)
Rnd 43 69 sc

Rnd 44 (22 sc, inc)*3 (72)
Rnd 45 red 72 sc
Rnd 46 green (23 sc, inc)*3 (75)
Rnd 47 75 sc
Rnd 48 (24 sc, inc)*3 (78)
Rnd 49 78 sc
Rnd 50 (25 sc, inc)*3 (8I)
Rnd 51 red 81 sc
Rnd 52 green (26 sc, inc)*3 (84)
Rnd 53 (13 sc, inc)*6 (90)
Rnd 54 7 sc, inc, (14 sc, inc)*5, 7 (96)
Rnd 55 96 sc
Rnd 56 (15 sc, inc)*6 (1O2)
Rnd 57 102 sc
Rnd 58-59 102 sc(2 rows)
Fix the thread and leave.

Feel free to tag me (@freeamigurumii) in your photos on Instagram or Facebook if you’d like!

All Finished.

If you enjoy making amigurumi, here I share this easy and free amigurumi pattern for you for free. Your kids will love these toys.

Note: I created the colors according to my own taste. You can use rope color according to your own taste.

Materials:
(This post contains affiliate links)
About 50g each of Size 4 Worsted weight yarn in skin color, sweater color, stripe colors
(I used Hobby Lobby’s I love this yarn for the project in colors ivory, key lime, red, white,and black)
12mm safety eyes
Embroidery thread for eyebrows
Stuffing
E hook (3.25)
H hook (5.0)
Needle for sewing
Stitch marker
¾ cup Poly pellets (these are used to weigh down the body so it can sit on the shelf)

The poly pellets are optional, but the do provide a lot of stability. I poured mine into mismatched socks and tied it up, like a bean bag. You can also use a sandwich bag or if you feel like your stitches are tight enough, just pour them into the body. I was more worried about my boys playing rough with them and the pellets working out, so I used the sock.

Say No to Wobbly Heads!
For this pattern, the legs, body and head are all one piece. That helps with the wobble, but there are few extra steps that make a big difference. First, make sure you are stuffing really well. You always need more than you think. Keep in mind that it will “deflate” for lack of a better term, over time. Make sure the body is packed, the neck is stuffed VERY well, and the head is too. On the other hand, if you over stuff the stitches will stretch and you can see the stuffing. Obviously stop before you get to that point.
You can also add something to the neck. My newest and most favorite way is to use a foam hair roller. Yes, the kind that is used to curl hair! I get 6 for $1 at the Dollar Tree. They are the smaller, skinnier kind.Just stick them through the neck and stuff as well as you can around it. I needed to bend mine over because it was a little too big but it was no problem! This is by far the sturdiest I have ever seen my doll heads.
You can also crochet a tube. For this doll, because the neck is 12 stitches around, SC 11 in a magic circle. SC around until you reach about 20 rows (stuffing as you go) and then decrease and sew it shut. You will want to make sure that it is very firmly packed. Stuff it down the neck. Fill around with stuffing as well. (see I told you stuffing was important!)

Abbreviations
SC– single crochet

SC INC– single crochet increase (2 SC in each stitch)

INV DEC– Invisible decrease (put hook through the FRONT LOOP ONLY of two consecutive stitches [two loops on hook] Yarn over pull through both loops. [two loops on hook] Yarn over pull through two loops)

Magic Circle– Make a loop, leaving a long tail to work with. Insert hook in center of loop, yarn over and draw up a loop. Yarn over, pull through to make the first chain (this does not count as a stitch!). Continue to crochet over the loop and tail with the number of stitches called for. (If you need 6 SC, then crochet 6 SC inside the ring.) Pull the tail to close the circle.

Always move your stitch marker to the last stitch in the round. This pattern is worked in continuous rounds.

Everything but the scarf uses the E hook.
Legs
The first color you use in the stripes will be the color of the bottom when you make the body. So the white was the same color as the bottom for the reindeer.
Using Black:
Round 1: 6 SC in a magic circle.
Round 2: INC in each around. (12)
Round 3: SC in the first, SC INC in the next. (18)
Round 4: SC in the first 2, SC INC in the next. Repeat around. (24)
Round 5: SC in first 3, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (30)
Round 6: SC in first 4, SC INC in the next. Repeat around. (36)
Rounds 7-11: SC in each around. (36)
Round 12: INV DEC 12 times. SC in the remaining 12 stitches. (24)
Round 13: INV DEC 6 times. SC in the remaining 12. (18)
Rounds 14-17: SC in each around. (18)
Change color to the color you want the bottom to be on your amigurumi. For the rest of the leg, change colors every 5 rows.
Rounds 18-52: SC in each around. (18)
Fasten off leaving a long tail to sew onto the body. You will attach the legs to row 10 of the body.
Make the boots edge by attaching the black yarn to the first row where you change color, with the legs facing up and the boots down so that your stitches will be facing up.Go around the stitch, like you were making a post stitch. Chain 2. HDC in each around, slip stitching to the first when you meet it. Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Arms
*I only stuff the very bottom and very lightly. Then not at all through the top half.*
Using tan color:
Round 1: SC 6 in a magic ring.
Round 2: SC INC in each around. (12)
Round 3: SC in first, SC INC in the next. Repeat around. (18)
Rounds 4-8: SC in each around. (18)
Change to sweater color.
Rounds 9-25: SC in each around.(18)
Round 26: SC in the first, INV DEC in the next. Repeat in next.
Fasten off and leave a tail long enough to sew on. Attach the arms between rows 28 and 29 on the body.
Make the sweater edge by attaching the same color of yarn to the first row where you change color, with the hands facing up so that your stitches will be facing down (like the cuffs of your sweater would.) Go around the stitch, like you were making a post stitch. Chain 2. HDC in each around, slip stitching to the first when you meet it. Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Body
Using the color of the top strip of your legs:
Round 1: In a magic circle, 6 SC.
Round 2: SC INC in each around. (12)
Round 3: SC in first, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (18)
Round 4: SC in first 2, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (24)
Round 5: SC in first 3, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (30)
Round 6: SC in first 4, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (36)
Round 7: SC in first 5, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (42)
Round 8: SC in first 6, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (48)
Round 9: SC in first 7, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (54)
Round 10: SC in first 8, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (60)
Rounds 11-12: SC in each around. (60)
Change to sweater color.
Rounds 13-19: SC in each around. (60)
Round 20: SC in the first 8, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (54)
Rounds 21: SC in each around. (54)
Round 22: SC in the first 7, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (48)
Round 23: SC in each around. (48)
Round 24: SC in the first 6, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (42)
Round 25: SC in each around. (42)
Round 26: SC in the first 5, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (36)
Round 27: SC in each around. (36)
Round 28: SC in the first 4, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (30)
Round 29: SC in the first 3, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (24)
Round 30: SC in the first 2, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (18)
Round 31: SC in the first, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (12)
Rounds 32: SC in each around (12)
Change to skin color.
Round 33: SC in each around. (12)
From here we will be increasing the head. From this point I am resetting the number on the rounds. Round 34 of the body is now Round 1 of the head. It will be easy to see.

Head
Round 1: SC in first, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (18)
Round 2: SC in first 2, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (24)
Round 3: SC in first 3, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (30)
Round 4: SC in first 4, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (36)
Round 5: SC in first 5, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (42)
Round 6: SC in first 6, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (48)
Round 7: SC in first 7, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (54)
Round 8-20: SC in each stitch around. (54)
Place the safety eyes in between rows 13 and 14, ten stitches apart. Sew on eyebrows. This is also a good time to place the foam roller or dowel if you are using one. Make sure to stuff the neck around the dowel as well as you can. I also like to stretch the bottom of the head a little. It makes it more round from the point of the neck.
Round 21: SC in the first 7, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (48)
Round 22: SC in the first 6, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (42)
Round 23: SC in the first 5, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (36)
Round 24: SC in the first 4, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (30)
Round 25: SC in the first 3, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (24)
Round 26: SC in the first 2, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (18)
Round 27: SC in the first, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (12)
Round 28: INV DEC around. (6)
Fasten off and weave in ends.

Sweater Edge
Make the sweater edge by attaching the same color of yarn to the first row where you change color, with the bottom facing up so that your stitches will be facing down (like the edge of your sweater would.) Go around the stitch, like you were making a post stitch. Chain 2. DC in each around, slip stitching to the first when you meet it. Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Scarf
Using H hook:
Chain 70. Two stitches from the end DC. DC in each stitch to the end (68)
Chain 2 and DC in the same stitch. DC in each stitch to the end. (68)
Fasten off. Attach fringe.

Hat
(Use the smaller hook and green yarn.)
At the end of each round you will chain 2. It does not count as a stitch. Fasten to the first stitch with a slip stitch at the end of each row.
With Green:
Round 1: In a magic circle crochet 10 DC.
Round 2: DC in each around. (10)
Round 3: DC in the first, INC in the next. Repeat around. (15)
Round 4: DC in each around. (15)
Round 5: DC in the first 2, INC in the next. Repeat around. (20)
Round 6: DC in each around. (20)
Round 7: DC in the first 3, INC in the next. Repeat around. (25)
Round 8: DC in each around. (25)
Round 9: DC in the first 4, INC in the next. Repeat around. (30)
Round 10: DC in the first 5, INC in the next. Repeat around. (35)
Round 11: DC in the first 6, INC in the next. Repeat around. (40)
Round 12: DC in the first 7, INC in the next. Repeat around. (45)
Round 13: DC in the first 8, INC in the next. Repeat around. (50)
Rounds 14-19: DC in each around.
Change to red.
Round 20: DC in each around. (50)
Round 21-22: Front post double crochet (FPDC) around the first stitch. Back post double crochet(BPDC) in the next. Alternate to the end of the row.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Attach a fluffy pom pom to the top.

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