Pattern: ÉLÉPHANT CROCHET

Material:

• 4mm hook, padding, upholsterer needle without point, snap eyes, 4 carafe caps (optional) for flat leg shape, 2 large wooden buttons (optional) for saddle, 2 wooden buttons boys (optional) for bridle and whinny or canter sound box (optional).

Stamen:

A. 200 grams of White yarn. (head, body, legs and mane).

B. 100 grams of mahogany brown stamen (spots on the body, head, legs, ears and mane)

C. 50 grams of light brown stamen (hooves, frenulum, girth and saddle).

D. 50 grams of chocolate brown yarn (saddle)

Abbreviations:

SC: Half a point; insert the hook in the next point, make a loop and pull out one point (2 points in hook), make a loop and pass it through the two points on the hook.

HDC: Half high point; make a loop, insert the hook at the next point and pull out another loop (3 points on the hook) make another loop and pass it through the 3 points on the hook.

DC: High Point; make a loop, pass the hook through the stitch, make a loop pass the strand through the return point, make a loop and pass through two of the strands on the hook, make a loop and pass it through the remaining two strands in the hook.

İNC: Increase; do two SC at the same point.

DEC: Decrease; insert the hook through the front strand of the following two points, make a loop and pass it between these points, make a loop and pass it through the 2 points on the hook.

SL-ST: Dwarf or Slipped Point; insert the hook at the next point, make a loop and pull it out through the point on the hook.

CH: Chain.

PTOS: Points.

REAR LEGS: Make 2

Row 1: Make a 6SC ring with yarn C.

Row 2: 6İNC. 12 pts

Row 3: [1SC, 1İNC] 6 times. 18 pts

Row 4: [2SC, 1İNC] 6 times. 24 pts

Row 5: [3SC, 1İNC] 6 times. 30 pts

Row 6: 30SC on the back yarn.

Row 7:30 SC.

Row 8: [3SC, 1DEC] 6 times. 24 pts

Change to yarn A.

Row 9 at 15:24 SC.

From this round, stamens A and B begin to alternate to form spots. If you wish, you can omit the changes so that the legs are of a single color.

Row 16: B 3SC, A 20SC, B 1SC.

Row 17: B 5SC, A 17SC, B 2SC.

Row 18: B 6SC, A 16SC, B 2SC.

Row 19: B 5SC, A 19SC.

Row 20: B 4SC, A 6SC, B 4SC, A 10SC.

Row 21: A 1SC, B 2SC, A 7SC, B 5SC, A 9SC.

Row 22: A 10SC, B 6SC, A 8SC.

Row 23: A 11SC, B 6SC, A 7SC.

Row 24: A 12SC, B 5SC, A 7SC.

Row 25: A 13SC, B 3SC, A 8SC.

Row 26: At 24SC.

Fill, cast off with 1SL-ST leaving a long strand to join the body.

Note: You can place the carafe lids at the bottom of each leg before filling to give a flat effect to each leg, placing the sound box on one of the legs.

FRONT LEGS:

Make 2

Row 1: Make a 6SC ring with yarn C.

Row 2: 6İNC. 12 pts

Row 3: [1SC, 1İNC] 6 times. 18 pts

Row 4: [2SC, 1İNC] 6 times. 24 pts

Row 5: [3SC, 1İNC] 6 times. 30 pts

Row 6: 30SC on the back yarn.

Row 7:30 SC.

Row 8: [3SC, 1DEC] 6 times. 24 pts

Change to yarn A.

Row 9 at 13:24 SC.

From this round, stamens A and B begin to alternate to form spots. If you wish, you can omit the changes so that the legs are of a single color.

Row 14: B 2SC, A 22SC.

Row 15: B 4SC, A 20SC.

Row 16: B 4SC, A 20SC.

Row 17: A 2SC, B 2SC, A 20SC.

Row 18: A 3SC, B 1SC, A 20SC.

Row 19: At 24SC.

Row 20: A 4SC, B 3SC, A 17SC.

Row 21: A 4SC, B 3SC, A 17SC.

Row 22: A 3SC, B 6SC, A 15SC.

Row 23: A 3SC, B 9SC, A 12SC.

Row 24: A 3SC, B 10SC, A 11SC.

Row 25: A 2SC, B 12SC, A 10SC.

Row 26: A 2SC, B 12SC, A 10SC.

Fill, cast off with 1SL-ST leaving a long strand to join the body.

HEAD:

Row 1: Make a 6SC ring with yarn A.

Row 2: 6İNC. 12 pts

Row 3: [1SC, 1İNC] 6 times. 18 pts

Row 4: [2SC, 1İNC] 6 times. 24 pts

Row 5: [3SC, 1İNC] 6 times. 30 pts

From this round, stamens A and B begin to alternate to form spots. If you wish, you can omit the changes so that the head is of a single color.

Row 6: B 3SC, A 9SC, B 3SC, A 14SC, B 1SC.

Row 7: B 4SC, A 8SC, B 4SC, A 12SC, B 2SC.

Row 8: B 5SC, A 6SC, B 7SC, A 10SC, B 2SC.

Row 9: B 6SC, A 5SC, B 8SC, A 9SC, B 2SC.

Row 10: B 6SC, A 5SC, B 8SC, A 9SC, B 2SC.

Row 11: B 7SC, A 6SC, B 7SC, A 7SC, B 3SC.

Row 12: B 5SC, A 9SC, B 7SC, A 6SC, B 3SC.

Row 13: B 5SC, A 8SC, B 8SC, A 7SC, B 2SC.

Row 14: B 7SC, A 5SC, B 11SC, A 4SC, B 3SC.

Row 15: B 4SC, 1İNC, 2SC, A 2SC, 1İNC, 2SC, B 2SC, 1İNC, 4SC, 1İNC, 4SC, 1İNC, A 2SC, B 2SC, 1İNC. 36 pts

Row 16: B 5SC, 1İNC, 4SC, A 1SC, 1İNC, 1SC, B 4SC, 1İNC, [5SC, 1İNC] 3 times. 42 pts

Row 17: B 6SC, 1İNC, 6SC, A 1İNC, B [6SC, 1İNC] 4 times. 48 pts

Row 18: B 14SC, A 3SC, B 31SC.

Row 19: B 12SC, A 7SC, B 29SC.

Row 20: B 12SC, A 8SC, B 28SC.

Row 21: B 12SC, A 9SC, B 27SC. Row 22: B 12SC, A 9SC, B 27SC.

Row 23: B 13SC, A 9SC, B 26SC.

Row 24: B 16SC, A 4SC, B 28SC.

Row 25: B 17SC, A 2SC, B 29SC.

Continue with yarn B.

Row 26 at 28:48 SC.

Place pressure eyes on row 17 leaving 12 stitches between them and start filling as you knit.

Row 29: [6SC, 1DEC] 6 times. 42 pts

Row 30: 42SC.

Row 31: [5SC, 1DEC] 6 times. 36 pts

Row 32: [4SC, 1DEC] 6 times. 30 pts

Row 33: [3SC, 1DEC] 6 times. 24 pts

Row 34: [2SC, 1DEC] 6 times. 18 pts

Row 35: [1SC, 1DEC] 6 times. 12 pts

Finish filling.

Row 36: 6DEC. 6 pts

Bind off with 1SL-ST leaving a small strand to go through the remaining six stitches, pull to close, tie a knot and hide the strand.

BODY:

Row 1: With yarn B make 24CH, and 1SL-ST in the first chain to form a circle.

Row 2 and 3: 24SC.

Row 4: 1İNC, 23SC. 25Pts

Row 5: 25SC.

Row 6: 1İNC, 24SC. 26Pts

Row 7: 26SC.

Row 8: 1İNC, 25SC. 27Pts

From this round, stamens A and B begin to alternate to form spots. If you wish, you can omit the changes so that the body is of a single color.

Row 9: A 5SC, B3SC, A 5SC, B 2SC, A 3SC, B 4SC, A 1SC, B 2SC, 2SC. 27 pts

Row 10: A 1İNC, 2SC, B 3SC, A 6SC, B 4SC, A 3SC, B 2SC, A 6SC. 28Pts

Row 11: A 3SC, B 3SC, A 3SC, B 2SC, A 5SC, B 3SC, A 9SC. 28 pts

Row 12: A 1İNC, 4SC, B 1SC, A 3SC, B 1SC, A 4SC, B 3SC, A 11SC. 29 pts

Row 13: A 5SC, B 3SC, A 1SC, B 4SC, A 2SC, B 6SC, A 8SC. 29 pts

Row 14: A 1İNC, 3SC, B 5SC, A 1SC, B 4SC, A 1SC, B 9SC, A 5SC. 30Pts

Row 15: A 10SC, B 9SC, A 11SC. 30 pts

Row 16: A 21CH, 20SC starting from the second chain from the hook, around the points of round 15 10SC, B 10SC, A 10SC, 19SC on the other side of the chains, 1İNC. 71 pts

Row 17: A [7SC, 1İNC] 3 times, 4SC, B 3SC, 1İNC, 7SC, 1İNC, 1SC, A 6SC, 1İNC, [7SC, 1İNC] 2 times 6SC, 3SC together at the last stitch. 81 pts

Row 18: A [6SC, 1İNC] 4 times, B [6SC, 1İNC] 2 times, 4SC, A 2SC, 1İNC, [6SC, 1İNC] 3 times, 8SC, 3İNC. 94 pts.

Row 19: A [9SC, 1İNC] 3 times, 2SC, B 7SC, 1İNC, 9SC, 1İNC, 2SC, A 7SC, 1İNC, [9SC, 1İNC] 3 times, [1SC 1İNC] 2 times. 105 pts

Row 20: B 3SC, A 38SC, B 15SC, A 39SC [1İNC, 2SC] 3 times, B 1SC. 108 pts.

Row 21: B 1İNC, 3SC, A 6SC [1İNC, 9SC] 3 times, B 1İNC, 9SC, 1İNC, 5SC, A 4SC [1İNC, 9SC] 4 times, 1İNC, 5SC, B 2SC. 119 pts

Row 22: B 7SC, A 39SC, B 15SC, A 56SC, B 2SC. 119 pts

Row 23: B 8SC, A 39SC, B 14SC, A 56SC, B 2SC. 119 pts

Row 24: B 10SC, A 36SC, B 16SC, A 55SC, B 2SC. 119 pts

Row 25: B 10SC, A 36SC, B 16SC, A 56SC, B 1SC. 119 pts

Row 26: B 1DEC, 9SC, A [1DEC, 9SC] 3 times, 1DEC, 1SC, B, 8SC, 1DEC, 4SC, A 5SC, [1DEC, 9SC] 4 times, 1DEC, 6SC, B 1SC. 108 pts.

Row 27: B 10SC, A 33SC, B 11SC, A 54SC. 108 pts.

Row 28: B 13SC, A 27SC, B 19SC, A 49SC. 108 pts.

Row 29: B 13SC, A 27SC, B 19SC, A 49SC. 108 pts.

Row 30: B 13SC, A 27SC, B 19SC, A 49SC. 108 pts.

Row 31: B 13SC, A 27SC, B 19SC, A 49SC. 108 pts.

Row 32: B 13SC, A 27SC, B 19SC, A 49SC. 108 Pts.

Row 33: B 1DEC, 8SC, 1DEC, A 8SC, [1DEC, 8SC] 2 times, 1DEC, 1SC, B 7SC, 1DEC, 3SC, A 5SC, [1DEC, 8SC] 4 times, 1DEC, 6SC. 97 pts

Row 34: A 1DEC, 2SC, B 4SC, A 1SC, [1DEC, 7SC] 3 times, 1DEC, 3SC, B 4SC, 1DEC, A 7SC, [1DEC, 7SC] 4 times, 1DEC, 5SC. 86 pts.

Row 35: A [1DEC, 4SC] 14 times, 2SC. 72 pts

Row 36: At 24SC, [1DEC, 1SC] 5 times, 23SC, [1DEC, 1SC] 3 times, 1SC. 64 pts.

Row 37: A [1DEC, 1SC] 21 times, 1SC. 43 pts

Bind off leaving a long strand to sew lengthwise, fill and bind to the head.

EARS: Make 2

Row 1: With yarn B make 9CH, 4SC from the second point from the hook, 3HDC, 3HDC together on the last chain, 3HDC on the other side of the chains, 4SC, 1CH and turn.

Row 2: 5HDC, 3DC, 2DC together at the next stitch, 3DC, 5HDC.

Bind off with 1CH leaving a strand to join the head.

MOUNT:

Row 1: With yarn D make 9CH, 8SC from the second chain from the hook, 1CH and turn.

Row 2: 1İNC, 6SC, 1İNC, 1CH and flip. 10 pts

Row 3: 1İNC, 8SC, 1İNC, 1CH and flip. 12 pts

Row 4: 1İNC, 10SC, 1İNC, 1CH and flip. 14 pts

Row 5: 1İNC, 12SC, 1İNC, 1CH and flip. 16 pts

Row 6: 1İNC, 14SC, 1İNC, 1CH and flip. 18 pts

Row 7: 1İNC, 16SC, 1İNC, 1CH and flip. 20 pts

Row 8: 1İNC, 18SC, 1İNC, 1CH and flip. 22 pts

Row 9 at 11:22 SC, 1CH and flip.

Row 12: 22SC, 7CH.

Row 13: 28SC from the second chain from the hook, 7CH.

Row 14: 34SC starting from the second chain from the hook, 1CH and flip. 34 pts

Row 15 at 17:34 SC, 1CH and flip.

Row 18: 28SC, 1CH and flip (the remaining six stitches from this round will no longer be knitted). 28 pts

Row 19: 22SC, 1CH and flip (the remaining 6 stitches from this round will no longer knit). 22 pts

Row 20 and 21: 22SC, 1CH and flip.

Row 22: 1DEC, 18SC, 1DEC, 1CH and flip. 20 pts

Row 23: 1DEC, 16SC, 1DEC, 1CH and flip. 18 pts

Row 24: 1DEC, 14SC, 1DEC, 1CH and flip. 16 pts

Row 25: 1DEC, 12SC, 1DEC, 1CH and flip. 14 pts

Row 26: 1DEC, 10SC, 1DEC, 1CH and flip. 12 pts

Change to yarn C.

Row 27: Knit SC around the entire saddle by making increases in the corners to avoid gathering them.

Fill and top with 1SL-ST leaving a very long strand to attach to the body if you wish, you can place the large wooden buttons on both sides of the frame.

MOUNTING BELT:

Row 1: Make 15CH with yarn C, 14SC from the second chain from the hook, 10CH (for the first buttonhole through which the button of the mount will enter), 14SC on the other side of the first woven chains, 10CH ( for the second buttonhole) cast off with 1SL-ST and hide the strands.

Place the cinch on the lower part of the horse’s body.

FRENILLO: Make 2

Part 1: (Snout)

Row 1: With yarn C make approximately 30CH (increase or omit until you have enough to surround the horse’s snout) 1SL-ST in the first chain to form a circle,

Row 2: Knit from SC around all stitches (do not cast off).

Part 2: (Head)

Row 3: do approximately 45CH (enough to go from one side of the muzzle, go around the head and get to the other side of the muzzle), 1SL-ST on a stitch halfway through round 2, knit from SC over the chains, 1SL-ST at the next point where the chains were raised.

Part 3: (Reins)

Row 4: do approximately 90CH (enough to go from one side of the snout to the other leaving the necessary length to form the reins), knit from SC over all the chains, 1SL-ST at the next point where the chains were raised.

Cast off with 1CH and hide the strand.

NOTE: You can put wooden buttons on each end of the muzzle part to give it a better finish.

HORSEHAIR:

Pompadour: (make 2)

Cut 15 strands of yarn B approximately 15 centimeters long, tie in half and join to the horse’s forehead

Nape and neck: (make 5)

Cut 20 strands of yarn A and B approximately 30 centimeters long, tie in half and join to the horse’s forehead.

TAIL: (make 1)

Cut 30 strands of yarn A and B approximately 30 centimeters long, tie in half and join to the horse’s forehead.

More Amigurumi Horse Ideas:

Supplies

– 3.5mm (E) hook
– 15mm safety eyes
– Yarn needle
– Fiber fill
– Disappearing ink marker 

Yarn (acrylic, weight 4)

– Cream (I used RHSS – Aran)
– Tan (I used RHSS – Buff)
– Brown (I used RHSS – Cafe Latte)

Abbreviations
ch: chain
sc: single crochet
inc: 2sc increase
BLO: back loop only
dec: invisible decrease

Attaching with thread vs. yarn tail
For a cleaner look, I opted to cut the yarn tails on the inner ears short and weave them into the back of the work, then attach the inner ears to the ears with matching thread. However, you can also attach them using a yarn needle and the yarn tail. It’s up to you!

Regarding stitch markers

Note: The photos above show a fox, but the technique is the same for all of my patterns.The pattern indicates to insert 4 different stitch markers in various places besides the one you use to track the beginning/end of each round.
I recommend using strands of yarn in 3 different colors as your stitch markers: Two strands in color 1 (blue) to mark where you will place each eye, Two strands color 2 (pink) to mark where you will start attaching each ear, and one long strand in color 3 (green) to track the beginning/end of each round.
The photos above demonstrate how to mark a stitch while crocheting a round: lay your strand of yarn acting as a marker over your working yarn and the stitch you’ll be working into, then complete the stitch as normal.You’ll essentially be weaving the long strand in color 3 through your work with each round. On odd rounds you’ll be laying the strand back-to-front, and on even rounds you’ll be laying the strand front-to-back.The advantage of using this technique is you’ll have the beginning of every single round marked, which makes it much easier to find your place if you make a mistake. That said, It’s perfectly fine to use a regular ol’ safety pin-like marker to keep track of your rounds instead. 

How to indent the eyes

Note: The video above shows a unicorn, but the technique is the same for all of my patterns.
Step 1 – Cut a strand of yarn approximately 18″ long. Tie a large, secure knot in one end and thread the other end through your yarn needle.
Step 2 – Insert your needle through the back opening of the head and sew between the two spots where you’ll be placing your safety eyes (marked with your color 1 stitch markers).
Step 3 – Pull your strand of yarn taut, which will create indents.
Step 4 – Fasten off with a knot and hide your yarn tail inside the head.

How to add hair for the mane and tail

Step 1 – Cut 10″ long strands of yarn. How many depends on your personal preference, but I ended up using well over 100. As you can see in the 4th photo above, I only rooted hair on every other round, but filled in the gaps with one strand of yarn on each side.I recommend finding a book or DVD case to wrap your yarn around several times, then cut along the top – it makes the process of cutting yarn strands much faster and it’s easier to produce a consistent length.
Optional: Use a ruler and a disappearing ink marker to draw a rectangle on the head as a guide for where to root the mane. You can do the same for the tail by tracing something circular (about 1.5″ in diameter) on the rear.
Step 2 – Fold a strand of yarn in half, insert your hook under a stitch in the head or body. Use your hook to catch your yarn strand and pull through a loop, then pull your tail ends of the strand through the loop.This video illustrates the technique perfectly, except I insert my hook front-to-back instead of side-to-side.
Step 3 – If giving your creation to a small child, be sure to secure each strand of hair with a knot so it can’t easily be pulled out.

Instructions

Be sure to read the “notes” section before proceeding.

Head

With cream yarn:
01. Chain 5 start: ch5, inc in 2nd ch from hook, sc 2, 5sc in the last ch. Continue on the other side of the chain base, sc 2, 3sc in the last ch [14]
02. inc, sc 4, *inc* 3 times, sc 4, *inc* 2 times [20]
03. inc, sc 6, *inc* 2 times, sc, inc, sc 6, *inc* 2 times, sc [26]
04. inc, sc 8, *inc, sc* 2 times, inc, sc 8, *inc, sc* 2 times [32]
05. inc, sc 10, inc, sc 2, inc, sc, inc, sc 10, inc, sc 2, inc, sc [38]
06. inc, sc 12, *inc, sc 2* 2 times, inc, sc 12, *inc, sc 2* 2 times [44]
07. *sc 10, inc* 4 times [48]
08. sc 3, dec, *sc 6, dec* 5 times, sc 3 [42]
09. *sc 5, dec* [36]
10. sc 2, dec, *sc 4, dec* 5 times, sc 2 [30]

At the end of round 10, sc 7 additional stitches. Consider this the official end of round 10 and proceed with round 11 as normal. This ensures your color join will be at the bottom of the head.

Switch to tan yarn (tutorial):
11 – 12. sc in each st around [30]
13. sc 2, inc, *sc 4, inc* 5 times, sc 2 [36]
14. *sc 5, inc* [42]
15. sc 3, inc, sc 6, inc, sc 3, insert marker color 1 into the next sc (17th st from start of round), sc 2, inc, sc 6, inc, sc 4, insert marker color 1 into next sc (34th st from start of round), sc, inc, sc 6, inc, sc 3 [48]
16. *sc 7, inc* [54]
17. sc 4, inc, *sc 8, inc* 5 times, sc 4 [60]
18 – 23. sc in each st around [60]
24. sc 23, insert marker color 2 into the next sc (24th st from start of round), sc 17, insert marker color 2 into the next sc (42nd st from start of round), sc 18 [60]
25 – 27. sc in each st around [60]
28. sc 4, dec, *sc 8, dec* 5 times, sc 4 [54]
29. *sc 7, dec* [48]
30. sc 3, dec, *sc 6, dec* 5 times, sc 3 [42]
31. *sc 5, dec* [36]
32. sc 2, dec, *sc 4, dec* 5 times, sc 2 [30]

Stuff head ¾ full. Sew between the two spots marked with your color 1 markers to sculpt the head. The markers are where you will place the eyes. Insert eyes and secure backings.

33. *sc 3, dec* [24]
34. sc, dec, *sc 2, dec* 5 times, sc [18]
35. *sc, dec* [12]

Finish stuffing.

36. dec in each st around [6]

Close with an ultimate finish.

Ears (make 2)

With tan yarn:
01. start 6 sc into a magic ring [6]
02. *sc, inc* [9]
03. sc, inc, *sc 2, inc* 2 times, sc [12]
04. *sc 3, inc* [15]
05. sc 2, inc, *sc 4, inc* 2 times, sc 2 [18]
06. *sc 5, inc* [21]
07. sc in each st around [21]
08. *sc 5, dec* [18]
09. sc 2, dec, *sc 4, dec* 2 times, sc 2 [15]
10. *sc 3, dec* [12]
11 – 12. sc in each st around [12]

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing. Fold the top opening in half and slip stitch closed.

Inner Ears (make 2)

With cream yarn:
01. Chain 7 start: ch 7, inc in 2nd ch from hook, sc 4, 5sc in the last ch. Continue on the other side of the chain base, sc 4, 3sc in the last ch [18]

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Body

With tan yarn:
01. start 6 sc into a magic ring [6]
02. inc in each st around [12]
03. *sc, inc* [18]
04. sc, inc, *sc 2, inc* 5 times, sc [24]
05. *sc 3, inc* [30]
06. sc 2, inc, *sc 4, inc* 5 times, sc 2 [36]
07. *sc 5, inc* [42]
08. sc 3, inc, *sc 6, inc* 5 times, sc 3 [48]
09. *sc 7, inc* [54]
10. sc 4, inc, *sc 8, inc* 5 times, sc 4 [60]
11 – 17. sc in each st around [60]
18. sc 4, dec, *sc 8, dec* 5 times, sc 4 [54]
19. sc in each st around [54]
20. *sc 7, dec* [48]
21. sc in each st around [48]
22. sc 3, dec, *sc 6, dec* 5 times, sc 3 [42]
23 – 24. sc in each st around [42]
25. *sc 5, dec* [36]
26 – 27. sc in each st around [36]
28. sc 2, dec, *sc 4, dec* 5 times, sc 2 [30]
29 – 30. sc in each st around [30]
31. *sc 3, dec* [24]

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing. Stuff firmly with fiber fill.

Arms (make 2)

With brown yarn:
01. start 6 sc into a magic ring [6]
02. inc in each st around [12]
03. *sc, inc* [18]
04. sc, inc, *sc 2, inc* 5 times, sc [24]
05. BLO: sc in each st around [24]
06 – 07. sc in each st around [24]

Switch to tan yarn (tutorial):
08. sc in each st around [24]
09. sc 11, dec, sc 11 [23]
10. sc in each st around [23]
11. sc 21, dec [22]
12. sc in each st around [22]
13. sc 10, dec, sc 10 [21]
14. sc in each st around [21]
15. sc 19, dec [20]
16. sc in each st around [20]
17. sc 9, dec, sc 9 [19]
18. sc in each st around [19]
19. sc 17, dec [18]
20. sc in each st around [18]
21. sc 8, dec, sc 8 [17]
22. sc in each st around [17]
23. sc 15, dec [16]
24 – 25. sc in each st around [16]
26. *sc 2, dec* [12]

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing. Stuff firmly with fiber fill. Fold the top opening in half and slip stitch closed.

Legs (make 2)

With brown yarn:
01. start 6 sc into a magic ring [6]
02. inc in each st around [12]
03. *sc, inc* [18]
04. sc, inc, *sc 2, inc* 5 times, sc [24]
05. *sc 3, inc* [30]
06. BLO: sc in each st around [30]
07 – 08. sc in each st around [30]

Switch to tan yarn (tutorial):
09. sc in each st around [30]
10. sc 14, dec, sc 14 [29]
11. sc 27, dec [28]
12. sc 13, dec, sc 13 [27]
13. sc 25, dec [26]
14. sc 12, dec, sc 12 [25]
15. sc 23, dec [24]
16. sc 11, dec, sc 11 [23]
17. sc 21, dec [22]
18. sc 10, dec, sc 10 [21]
19. sc 19, dec [20]
20. sc 9, dec, sc 9 [19]
21. sc 17, dec [18]
22. *sc 7, dec* [16]
23. *sc 2, dec* [12]

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing. Stuff firmly with fiber fill. Fold the top opening in half and slip stitch closed.

More Amigurumi Horse Ideas: