Legend:
sc = single crochet
ch = chain stitch
ss = connecting stitch
dc = double crochet
(#) = number of stitches in row

Boot (2 parts)
Row 1: with a black thread 6 ch, starting from the second loop we knit 4 sbn, 3bn in the last loop. Turn and continue on the opposite side of the initial chain: 3 sc, 3 sc in the last loop (13)
Row 2: 4 sc, 3 increases, 3 sc, 3 increases (19)
Row 3: 6 sc, 3 increases, 7 sc, 3 inc (25)
Row 4: work double crochets behind the back walls of the loops (25)
Row: 5-6: sc in a circle (25)
Row 7: 4 sc, 6 decreases, 9 sc (19)
Row 8: 3 sc , 4 decreases, 8 sc (15)
Row 9-10: sc in a circle (15)
Row 11: Pin the back wall of the next loop, then the connecting column behind the front wall of the same loop, 1 ch. Next, we knit half-columns with a crochet only for the front walls of the loops, we finish the circle with a connecting column (15)
Fasten the thread and thread the end of the thread.

Leg (2 parts)
Slightly turn the cuff of the boot inside out. We attach the thread of the color of the overalls to the back wall of the loop of the 11th row.
Row 1-7: Sc in round (15)
Fasten off and leave a long end to sew up the gap between the legs. Count back 4 sc and mark the 4th loop with a pin. Stuff the detail.
Knit the second leg, stuff, but do not fasten the thread, 2 sl-st, mark the last stob as the end of the row.

Body
We continue to knit from the second leg in a circle (later we attach the first leg).
Row 1: Ch 2, sc in first leg marked with a pin, 14 sc. ch 3, 15 sc in the second leg (35)
Row 2: sc in each ch of the previous row (= 2 sc), 15 sc, 3 increases, 15 sc (38)
Row 3: 17 sc, (2 sc, increase) – 2 times, 15 sbn (40)
Row 4: (4 sbn, increase) – 8 times (48)
Using the thread that you left at the end of the first leg, sew up the gap between the legs.
Row 5-7: Sc in a circle (48)
Row 8: (6 sc, decrease) – 6 times (42)
Row 9: Sc in a circle (42) Row
10: (5 sc, decrease) – 6 times (36)
Row 11: Sc in a circle (36)
Row 12: (4 sc, decrease) – 6 times (30)
Row 13: Sc in a circle (30)
Row 14: (3 sc, decrease) – 6 times (24)
Stuff the piece.
Row 15-20: Sc in a circle (24)
Row 21: (2 sc, decrease) – 6 times (18)
Stuff.
Row 22: (1 sbn, decrease) – 6 times (12)
Row 23-30: sbn in a circle (12)
Stuff the neck very tightly so that it can support the weight of the head.
Row 31: 6 decreases.
Fasten the thread. Pull the end of the thread through the front loops in a circle and pull tight. Fill in the remaining end.

Hands (2 parts) Row 1: skin-colored thread 6 sc in the amigurumi ring (6) Row 2: 6 increases (12) Row 3: (1 sc, increase) – 6 times (18) Row 4-5: sc in a circle (18)

Row 6: Lush 4 dc (4 dc in one loop and with one top), decrease, (1 sc, decrease) – 5 times (12) Row 7: sc in a circle (12) Change yarn to the color of the
overalls
Row
8 -12: sc in a circle (12)
Row 13: (2 sc, decrease) – 3 times (9)
Row 14-21: sc in a circle (9)
Row 22: 4 decreases, 1 sc (5)
Secure the thread. Pull the end of the thread through the front loops in a circle and pull tight. Fill in the remaining end.

Head
Before you start knitting the head, cut out two circles from white felt. These circles are intended for the peephole and should be slightly larger than the pupils (as the pupils, the author uses screwed eyes, the so-called safety eyes, you can see how they look in this post .). Insert the safety eyes into the white felt circles (you need to make a small hole in the middle) and set aside for now.
Row 1: 8 sc in the amigurumi ring
Row 2: 8 increases (16)
Row 3: (sc, increase) – 8 times (24)
Row 4: (2 sc, increase) – 8 times (32)
Row 5: (3 sbn, increase) – 8 times (40)
Row 6: (4 sbn, increase) – 8 times (48)
Row 7: (5 sbn, increase) – 8 times (56)
Row 8-17: sbn in a circle (56 )
Row 18: (5 sbn, decrease) – 8 times (48)
Row 19: (4 sbn, decrease) – 8 times (40)
Row 20: (3 sbn, decrease) – 8 times (32)
Row 21: (2 PRS, decrease) – 8 times (24)
Insert the eyes (already collected) into the head between 15 and 16 rows at a distance of 9 PRS from each other. Fasten them.
Row 22: Dec 12 (12).
Fasten the thread, leave a long end. Stuff the head, but not so tightly that you can then insert the neck inside.
Embroider eyelashes as shown in the picture.

Nose
Sew 3 straight lines (3 stitches) 3 sc between rows 16 and 17 of the head.

Hair
The hair is knitted in elongated loops about 15-16 cm long. We will knit in turn: one row with elongated loops, the other with simple sc, etc. As a result, we get a wig that we sew to the head. The loops will be cut, hairs will turn out.
Row 1: with yellow yarn 8 sc in the amigurumi ring (8)
Row 2: we knit with elongated loops: 2 in each sc (16)
Row 3: (1 sc, increase) – 8 times (24)
Row 4: we knit with elongated loops: (2 sbn, increase) – 8 times (32)
Row 5: (3 sbn, increase) – 8 times (40)
Row 6: knit with elongated loops: (4 sbn, increase) – 8 times (48)
Row 7: ( 5 sbn, increase) – 8 times (56)
Row 8: knit with elongated loops: 56 in a circle.
Fasten the thread, leave a long end for sewing. Pin the wig to the head with pins and sew, cut the loops and make a hairstyle.

Attachıng the head to the body
Follow the instructions in the picture below while sewing the head to the body.

CAP Ribbon is knitted in small rows with turns Row 1: with red yarn cast on 5 ch, from the 2nd loop knit 4 sc, ch, turn (4) Row 2: 4 sc, ch, turn (4) Row 3: with green yarn behind the back walls of the loops 4 sc, ch 1, turn (4) Row 4: 4 sc, ch, turn (4) Row 5: with red yarn behind the back walls of the loops 4 sc, ch 1, turn (4) Row 6: 4 sc, ch, turn (4) Next, repeat rows 3 to 6 until you have 30 strips (each strip = 2 rows). [adrotate group=”5″] We connect a strip of elastic into a ring with connecting posts and then knit in a circle along the edge of the elastic.

Row 1: With red yarn ch 1, 60 sc in each row of elastic, sl-st (60)
Row 2: ch 3, 60 dc, sl-st
Row 3: ch 3, (8 dc, decrease) – 6 times (54 dc), sl-st
Row 4: 3 ch, 54 dc, sl-
st Row 5: 3 ch, (7 dc, decrease) – 6 times (48 dc), sl-st
Row 6: 3 ch, 48 dc, sl-st
Row 7: 3 ch, (6 dc , decrease) – 6 times (42 dc), sl-
st Row 8: 3 ch, 42 dc, sl-
st Row 9: 3 ch, (5 dc, decrease) – 6 times = 36 dc, sl-st
Row 10-12: 3 ch, 36 dc, sl-st
Row 13: 3 ch, (4 dc, decrease) – 6 times (30 dc), sl-st
Row 14-16: 3 ch, 30 dc, sl-st
Row 17: 3 ch, (3 dc, decrease) – 6 times (24 dc), sl-
st Row 18-20: 3 ch, 24 dc, sl-st
Row 21: 3 ch, (2 dc, decrease) – 6 times (18 dc), sl-st
Row 22: 3 ch, 18 dc, sl-st
Row 23: 3 ch, (1 dc, decrease) – 6 times (12 dc), sl-st
Row 24: 3 ch, 12 dc, sl-st
Row 25: 3 ch, (decrease) – 6 times (6 dc), sl-st
Cut thread and thread the end. Make a pom pom with green yarn.
It remains to sew handles and buttons on the jumpsuit and the knitted amigurumi elf is ready! Dress up our elves and post pictures in the comments!!!

Abbreviations

R- row

MR – Magic ring;

St/Sts – stitch/stitches

ch – chain stitch;

sc – single crochet;

dc – double crochet

dec- decreasing (2 sc/dc together);

inc – increasing (2 sc/dc in 1 st);

ch-1 sp – chain 1 space

3dcps – a puff with 3 double stitches;

sl st – slip stitch;

3sctog- decreasing (3 sc together);

2 dctog- decreasing (2 sc together);

fpdc – front post double crochet;

bpdc – back post double crochet;

fpsc- front post single crochet

bpsc- back post single crochet;

Note: To make the decreases less visible on the crocheted detail I recommend making them

as shown in the picture below. It is advisable to use the present method on the visible parts of

the doll such as face, visible parts of the body, etc.

Yarn and Equipment

1. Alize Cotton Gold, cotton (55%), acrylic (45%), color light-beige (67), 330 m – 100 g.

Weight: Sport (5 ply) (Used for the head and arms of the doll). You will need approximately

10g of the yarn.

2. Alize Cotton Gold color beige (262) (Used for the hair). You will need approximately 20 g

of the yarn.

3. Alize Cotton Gold color cream (01) (Used for the stripes on the socks and the hat, for the

decor on the jacket and the skirt) – approximately 5 g of the yarn.

4. Alize Cotton Gold color mustard (05) (Used for the boots). You will need approximately 5

g of the yarn.

5. Alize Cotton Gold color dark brown (493) (Used for the boots). You will need

approximately 1 g of the yarn.

6. YarnArt Jeans, cotton (55%), polyacrylic (45%), color red (26). Weight: Sport (5 ply)

(Used for the jacket, the stripes on the socks and the hat). You will need approximately 15 g of

the yarn.

7. YarnArt Jeans color green (52) (Used for the skirt, arms and stripes on the body). You will

need approximately 15 g of the yarn.

8. A pair of eyes for toys or two halfbeads Ø 4 mm (0,16 inch)

9. Crochet hook: 2 mm (B/1- US, 14- UK), 2,5 mm (C/2 – US, 12 – UK).

10. Chopstick (or any other wooden stick with a blunt end) – for the stuffing of the toy.

11. Washable polyester filling for the stuffing of the toy.

12. Yarn needle – a long needle for assembling of the toy.

13. Two small red buttons for boots Ø 6 mm (0,24 inch).

If you use the materials as advised above the final size of the toy is going to be 21-22 cm

(approximately 8,5″) from top of the head to toes.

The pattern is written using USA terminology

Arms (2 piece)

Use a 2 mm crochet hook and light-beige (skin colored) yarn.

Start at the underside of the arm.

R 1: 6 sc in MR (6)

R 2: (2 sc, 1 inc) 2 times (8)

R 3: (3 sc, 1 inc) 2 times (10)

R 4: 4 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc (11)

R 5: 11 sc (11)

R 6: 5 sc, 3dcps, 5 sc (11)

R 7: 4 sc, 3sctog, 4 sc (9)

R 8-9: 9 sc (9)

Stuff the ready part of the arm tightly. Stuff the upper/further part of the arm loosely – use as

little of the stuffing as you can.

R 10-12: 1 sc in each stitch around (9)

Crochet additional 1 or 2 sc in the 12th row so that the change of the yarn is made at the back of

the arm.

Cut off the light-beige yarn and attach the green yarn

R 13: 1 sc in each stitch around (9)

R 14: 9 sc into the back loop of the stitch (9)

R 15-24: 1 sc in each stitch around (9)

R 25: (1 sc, 1 dec) 3 times, sl st (6)

Cut off the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing.

The last 8 rows do not add the stuffing at all or stuff very loosely so that the arms do not stick

out too much.

Attach the green yarn to the 13th row in the center of the back of the detail.

Insert the hook into the loop from the top downwards (from the top of the arm to the

direction of the palm)

R 1: 9 sc into the front loop (9)

R 2: (2 sc, 1 inc) 3 times (12)

Cut off the green yarn and attach the cream yarn

R 3: (1 sc, 2 ch) crochet in each stitch round the detail. Finish the row with sl st.

Cut and fix the yarn.

Legs, body and head (1 pieces)

We begin crocheting from the feet and legs of the doll.

Use a 2mm crochet hook and dark brown yarn.

Begin crocheting the left leg.

Ch 6 and work starting from the 2 nd st from the hook

around the foundation chain:

R 1: 1 inc, 3 sc, 4 sc in one st, 3 sc, 1 inc (14)

R 2: 1 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 4 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc (20)

R 3: 1 inc, 5 sc, (1 sc, 1 inc) 4 times, 5 sc, 1 inc (26)

R 4: 1 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc, (1 inc, 2 sc) 4 times, 5 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc (32)

Cut out two thick carton or plastic insoles of the matching size.

R 5: 32 sc into the back loop of the stitch (32)

Insert the insoles into the sole of the boots paying attention so

that the sole is tight around the insole. Put the insoles aside and

continue crocheting.

Cut off the dark brown yarn and attach the mustard yarn

R 6-7: 32 sc (32)

Pay attention – the decreasing in the 8th row is going to

be made with using different stitches.

R 8: 8 sc, 2 sc2tog, 6 dc2tog, 2 sc2tog, 6 sc (the marker is

moved 2 sc further on) (22)

R 9: 22 sc (22)

Insert the insoles into the boots.

R 10: 6 sc, 2 dec, 1 sc, 2 dec, 7 sc, (18)

Cut off the mustard yarn and attach the red yarn.

Crochet the 11th row into the back loop of the stitch.

R 11: 1 dec, 3 sc, 2 dec, 1 sc, 2 dec, 4 sc (13)

R 12: 5 sc, sc3tog, 5 sc (11)

Stuff the boot tightly, avoid stretching the stitches and bending the insoles.

R 13-15: 11 sc (11)

Do not cut off the red yarn.

Add the cream thread and continue crocheting.

Later on while crocheting you should make sure that the marker stays in the center of the back

of the leg so that the line of where you change yarn color does not move towards the front. For

that you can crochet an extra sc if needed and move the marker.

R 16-17: 11 sc cream yarn (11)

Change to red colored yarn

R 18-19: 11 sc (11)

Note: When you finish the 25th row cut and fix the cream colored yarn.

R 20-27: repeat 16-19 rows (change color from red to cream and vice versa every two

rows)

R 28: 8 sc (Stop crocheting the present row in the middle of the inner side of the leg. I stopped

and did not finish 3sc. You can stop earlier or later depending on the thickness of the yarn or

tightness of your crocheting).

For the right leg repeat 1st through 27th rows.

R 28: 14 sc (In the present row we add 3 sc more or less so that the row is finished in the

middle of the inner part of the leg. I made 3 sc. You might need more or fewer sc depending on

the thickness of the yarn or tightness of your crocheting).

Attach the mustard yarn to the 10th row in the center of the back of the detail. Insert the

hook into the loop from the bottom up (from the boot up the leg) .

R 1-2: 3 ch (does not count as st), 18 dc (crochet the first dc of each round into the base of the

ch), sl st in 1 st dc of the round to join (18)

R 3:1 ch, 18 reverse sc or Crab Stitch, sl ts to join (18)

Stuff the legs tightly. Avoid stretching the stitches.

We join the legs and begin crocheting the body

Turn the legs with the heels facing you. Without cutting off the

red yarn on the right leg make 4ch and attach it to the left leg.

R 29: 5 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc on the left leg detail, then 4 sc on chain, 5

sc, 1 inc, 5 sc on the right leg, 4 inc on the other side of the on

chain. Place the marker. (36)

R 30: 28 sc, (1 sc,1 inc) 4 times (40)

R 31-34: 40 sc (40)

R 35: (8 sc,1 dec) 4 times (36)

R 36: 36 sc (36)

R 37: 13 sc, 1 dec, 16 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc (34)

R 38: 34 sc (34)

R 39: 5 sc, 1 dec, 13 sc, 1 dec, 12 sc (32)

Cut off the red thread and attach the green yarn.

R 40: 32 sl st into the back loop of the stitch (32)

R 41: 32 sc into the back loop of the stitch (32)

Attach cream colored yarn and change to it.

R 42: 5 sc, 1 dec, 13 sc, 1 dec, 10 sc (30)

Change to green colored yarn

R 43: (8 sc, 1 dec) 3 times (27)

Change to cream colored yarn

R 44: 27 sc (27)

Further on continue changing the yarn from cream to green in each row.

R 45-47: 27 sc (27)

R 48: 4 sc, 1 dec, (7 sc,1 dec) 2 times, 3 sc (24)

R 49: 24 sc (24)

R 50: 4 sc, 2 dec, 7 sc, 2 dec, 5 sc (20)

R 51: 4 sc, 1 dec, 7 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc (18)

Stuff the body tightly, distribute the stuffing well, especially in the lower part of the body.

Cut off the cream and green yarns and attach the light-beige (skin colored) yarn.

Crochet 52nd row into the back loop of the stitch

R 52: (1 sc,1 dec) 6 times (12)

R 53-55: 12 sc (12)

Put aside the detail. Take the green yarn and attach it to the remaining front loops of the 51st

row.

Crochet into the front loop of each of the crochets of the row (1 sc, 1 ch). Finish the row with sl

st to join, cut and fix the yarn.

Stuff the body and the neck.

Go back to working on the main detail.

Begin crocheting the head.

R 56: 12 inc (24)

R 57: (2 sc, 1 inc) 8 times (32)

R 58: (3 sc, 1 inc) 8 times (40)

R 59: 2 sc, 1 inc, (4 sc, 1 inc) 7 times, 2 sc (48)

R 60-70: 48 sc (48)

Take a piece of wire approximately 6 inches long (15 см).

Attach some cotton yarn to the wire with the help of glue

wrapping the yarn around the wire, bend it in half and twist

the ends round as in the photo. Insert pointed ends of the wire

through the neck into the body through the stuffing as shown

in the photo. Stuff the head in the process of crocheting.

R 71: 3 sc, 1 dec, (6 sc, 1 dec) 5 times, 3 sc (42)

R 72: (5 sc, 1 dec) 6 times (36)

R 73: 2 sc, 1 dec, (4 sc, 1 dec) 5 times, 2 sc (30)

R 74: (3 sc, 1 dec) 6 times (24)

R 75: 1 sc, 1 dec, (2 sc, 1 dec) 5 times, 1 sc (18)

R 76: (1 sc, 1 dec) 6 times (12)

R 77: 6 dec (6)

Stuff the head tightly. Pay attention that it is well stuffed and

the stuffing is well-distributed especially at the bottom where

the cheeks are going to be formed. Close the opening, fix the

yarn and hide its tails inside the detail.

The wig

Use a 2mm crochet hook and beige colored yarn.

The cap for the wig is worked in joined rounds. In all the joined rounds (2nd through 4th) the

chain at the beginning of the row is counted as st. From the 2nd row up to the 5 th row work all

sts into back loop only.

R 1: 6 sc in MR (place marker in 2 nd sc), sl st in 1

st sc of the round to join (6)

R 2: 1 ch, 1 sc into the base of the ch and place marker in same st, 5 inc, sl st in ch of the round

to join (12)

From the 3 rd to the 4 th row make the increase of double crochet.

R 3: 2 ch, 1 dc into the base of the ch and place marker in same st, 11 inc, sl st to the 2nd ch of

the round to join (24)

R 4: 2 ch, 1 inc in next st, (1 dc, 1 inc) 11 times, (place marker in last dc of this round), sl st to

the 2nd ch of the round to join (36)

Continue working in the rows. From the 5th row up to the 8 th row 2 ch at the beginning of the

row does not count as a stitch.

R 5: 2 ch, 1 dc in next st, 1 inc, (2 dc, 1 inc) 6 times, 1 dc, 1 dec, turn work (29)

R 6-8: 2 ch, 29 dc (1 st dc into the base of the ch), turn work (29)

We are going to crochet strands of hair further on.

R 9: (17 ch, 16 sl st in 2 nd st from the hook, 1 skip, 1 sl st in next st of 8 th row) repeat 14 times,

17 ch, 16 sl st in 2 nd st from the hook, 1 sl st in 2 nd ch of 8 th row.

You are to receive 15 strands.

Fix and cut off the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing.

Note: Further on continue crocheting the strands in the joined rounds into the front loops of the

stitches. In each next row (1st through 4th) the last sl st are made into the base of the chain of

the first strand of the row.

Attach the same yarn to the stitch of the 4

th row that has been marked by the marker.

R 1: (30 ch, 29 sl st in 2 nd st from the hook, 1 skip, 1 sl st in next st of 4 th row) repeat 13 times,

(10 ch, 9 sl st in 2 nd st from the hook, 1 skip, 1 sl st in next st of 4 th row) repeat 5 times.

You are to receive 18 strands.

Fix and cut off the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing.

Continue crochet the strands into the front loops of the 3

rd row.

Attach the same yarn to the stitch of the 3rd row that is marked by the marker.

R 2: (32 ch, 31 sl st in 2 nd st from the hook, 1 skip, 1 sl st in next st of 3 rd row) repeat 8 times,

(12 ch, 11 sl st in 2 nd st from the hook, 1 skip, 1 sl st in next st of 3 rd row) repeat 4 times.

You are to receive 12 strands.

Fix and cut off the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing. Attach the same yarn to the stitch of the

2

nd row that is marked by the marker.

R 3: (34 ch, 33 sl st in 2 nd st from the hook, 1 sl st in next st of 2nd row) repeat 8 times, (14 ch,

13 sl st in 2 nd st from the hook, 1 sl st in next st of 2 nd row) repeat 4 times. You are to receive

12 strands.

Fix and cut off the yarn.

Attach the same yarn to the stitch of the 1st row that is marked by the marker.

R 4: (36 ch, 35 sl st in 2 nd st from the hook, 1 sl st in next st of 1st row) repeat 3 times, (16 ch,

15 sl st in 2 nd st from the hook, 1 sl st in next st of 1 st row) repeat 3.

You are to receive 6 strands.

Fix and cut off the yarn.

Steam iron the strands through a wet cloth to make the strands more even.

Assembling of the toy

Fix the arms with sewing pins to the 50st row (the last cream colored stripe) of the body and

attach them sewing in the round.

If you want the shoulders to look more natural press them with an iron through a wet cloth.

Count down 13 rows from the top of the head and mark the place for the eyes with pins. The

distance between the eyes should be 3 sc. Glue or sew on the eyes.

Mark the place for the nose two rows down from the eyes.

Start embroidering the nose. Place the stitches over two single crochet until the nose is

protruding a bit. Do not make the stitches too tight – the stitches should be quite accurate and

the tightness of the stitches should be the same for all of them. Only in such a case, the nose is

going to be even. After finishing the nose have the needle exit at the top of the head, fix the

thread well and hide its ends inside the head.

Match the top center of the head with the center of the wig, fix the wig to the head with the help

of the sewing pins and then sew it on with small sewing stitches following the edges of the wig

(as shown in the photos below).

Then lower each row of the strands and attach them with small stitches pressing the strands

to the head. You can leave the last row of 6 strands unattached.

Put some blusher on the doll’s cheeks.

That is all! Now you can dress up the Doll!

Skirt

Use the 2,5 mm crochet hook and green colored yarn.

Work in joined rounds.

To make an even seam ch 2 (at the beginning of the row), sl st to join does not count as a

stitch now and throughout. Crochet the first dc of each round into the base of the ch.

R 1: ch 33, sl st to the 1st ch of the round to join.

R 2: 2 ch, 33 dc, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join (33)

From the 3

rd and 4th rows work all sts into back loop only.

R 3: 2 ch, 5 dc, 1 inc, (4 dc, 1 inc) 5 times, 2 dc, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join (39)

R 4: 2 ch, 39 dc, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join (39)

R 5: 2 ch, 7 dc, 1 inc, (5 dc, 1 inc) 5 times, 1 dc, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join (45)

R 6: 2 ch, 2 dc into the base of the ch, *skip 2 sts, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next st*. Repeat * to *

until 2 sts remain, skip these 2 sts, 2 dc into the same crochet, into which you did the first 2 dc,

1 ch, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join.

R 7-8: 2 сh, then crochet 2 dc between the 2ch and the two first dc of the previous row, skip 4

sts. *(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in ch-1 sp, skip 4 sts*. Repeat * till * until 4 sts remain, skip 4 sts, 2 dc

into the same crochet, into which you did the first 2 dc, 1 ch, sl st to the the 1st dc of the round

to join.

Cut off and fix the yarn.

Further on we will crochet two more frills.

Attach the yarn to the front loop of the crochets of the 2nd row.

R 1: Repeat R 6 on the 33 stitches.

R 2: Repeat R 7

Cut off and fix the yarn.

Attach the yarn to the front loop of the crochets of the 3rd row.

R 1: 2 ch, 39 dc, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join (39)

R 2: Repeat R 6 on the 39 stitches

R 3: Repeat R 7

Cut off and fix the yarn.

Attach the cream yarn in the center of the back into the back loop of the crochets of the 8nd

row.

Then crochet (1 sc, 2 ch) in each st around. Finish off the row with sl st. Cut off and fix the

yarn.

Repeat for each frill accordingly

Decorative belt for the skirt

Use 2 mm hook and cream yarn.

Ch 5 and crochet into 5

th st from the hook (1 sl st, 4 ch) repeat 3 times, sl st.

Then crochet 70 ch. Pull out the last loop so that the chain does not get dissolved. Cut the yarn

leaving a long tail enough to make the three petals as at the beginning of the belt.

Thread the belt between the dc of the first row of the skirt. Insert the hook into the pulled out

chain and into the 5th chain counting from the hook and crochet 3 petals as you have done at the

other end of the belt. The tails of the yarn at both ends of the belt thread through the base of the

petals, pull them through, fix and cut them off (see photos below illustrating the process).

Jacket

The jacket is crocheted by turning the rows starting from the neck. Use the 2,5 mm crochet

hook and red colored yarn.

Ch 21 and work starting from 2nd st from the hook.

R 1: 20 sc, turn the work (20)

R 2: 2 ch, (1 dc, 1 inc) 5 times, (1 inc, 1 dc) 5 times, turn the work (30)

R 3: 2 ch, 4 dc, 4 ch, 6 skip, 10 dc, 4 ch, 6 skip, 4 dc, turn the work (26)

R 4: 2 ch, 26 dc (4 dc, 4 sc on chains, 10 dc, 4 dc on chains, 4 dc) turn the work (26)

R 5: 2 ch, 8 dc, (1 dc, 1 inc) 2 times, 2 dc, (1 inc, 1 dc) 2 times, 8 dc, turn the work (30)

R 6: 2 ch, 8 dc, (2 dc, 1 inc) 2 times, 2 dc, (1 inc, 2 dc) 2 times, 8 dc, turn the work clockwise, 2

sc in the last st of the 6th row, and crochet sc all along around the work in the direction shown

by the arrows in the photo (side- collar-side). Try and crochet the sc loosely so that the detail

remains flat.

Do not crochet the sc at the bottom of the vest. Crochet 2 sc or 3 sc in one st at corner points so

that the corners of the work do not curl. Crochet 2 sc into the last angular stitch to make the

turn, skip 1 stitch of the bottom and finish sl st. Cut off and fix the yarn.

Turn the vest with the right side facing you

and attach the cream colored yarn to the

back of the stitch in the middle of the

collar. Then crochet (1 sc, 1ch) in each st

into back loop only around all sides of the

vest. Finish with sl st. Cut off and fix the

yarn.

Divide a small piece of cream yarn in two

to make it thinner and embroider a

snowflake on both front parts of the vest.

Steam iron the vest through a wet cloth.

Turn out the collar a bit and press it with

the tip of the iron.

Hat

Begin with the red colored yarn. Use 2,5 mm hook.

To make an even seam ch 2 (at the beginning of the row), sl st to join does not count as a stitch

now and throughout. Crochet the first dc of each round into the base of the ch.

The Invisible Seam – Crochet Tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5-HRE0tB-Rc

R 1: 6 sc in MR, sl st to the 1st sc of the round to join (6)

R 2-3: 2 ch, 6 dc, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join (6)

Change to cream colored yarn

R 4: 2 ch, (2 dc,1 inc) 2 times, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join (8)

Change to red colored yarn

R 5-6: 2 ch, 8 dc, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join (8)

Change to cream colored yarn

R 7: 2 ch, (3 dc, 1 inc) 2 times, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join (10)

Change to red colored yarn

R 8-9: 2 ch, 10 dc, sl st to the 1st dc of the round

to join (10)

Change to cream colored yarn

R 10: 2 ch, 2 dc, 1 inc, 4 dc, 1 inc, 2 dc, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join (12)

Change to red colored yarn

R 11-12: 2 ch, 12 dc, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join (12)

Change to cream colored yarn

R 13: 2 ch, (5 dc, 1 inc) 2 times, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join (14)

Change to red colored yarn

R 14: 2 ch, 3 dc, 1 inc, 6 dc, 1 inc, 3 dc, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join (16)

R 15: 2 ch, (7 dc, 1 inc) 2 times, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join (18)

Change to cream colored yarn

R 16: 2 ch, 4 dc, 1 inc, 8 dc, 1 inc, 4 dc, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join (20)

Change to red colored yarn

R 17: 2 ch, (9 dc, 1 inc) 2 times, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join (22)

R 18: 2 ch, 5 dc, 1 inc, 10 dc, 1 inc, 5 dc, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join (24)

Change to cream colored yarn

R 19: 2 ch, (7 dc, 1 inc) 3 times, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join (27)

Change to red colored yarn

R 20: 2 ch, 4 dc, 1 inc, (8 dc, 1 inc) 2 times, 4 dc, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join (30)

R 21: 2 ch, (9 dc, 1 inc) 3 times, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join (33)

Change to cream colored yarn

R 22: 2 ch, 5 dc, 1 inc, (10 dc, 1 inc) 2 times, 5 dc, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join (36)

Change to red colored yarn

R 23: 2 ch, (5 dc, 1 inc) 6 times, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join (42)

R 24: 2 ch, 3 dc, 1 inc, (6 dc, 1 inc) 5 times, 3 dc, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join (48)

Change to cream colored yarn

R 25: 2 ch, 48 dc, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join (48)

Change to red colored yarn

R 26-27: 2 ch, 48 dc, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join (48)

Thread of red color cut and fasten off.

Change to cream colored yarn

R 28: 2 ch, 48 dc, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join (48)

Note: Crochet the first fpdc of 29 st round into the base of the ch.

R 29: 2 ch, (1 fpdc, 1 bpdc) and repeat until the end of a row, sl st to the 1st fpdc of the round to

join (48)

Note: Crochet the first fpsc of 30 st round into the base of the ch.

R 30: 1 ch, (1 fpsc, 1 ch, 1 bpsc, 1 ch) and repeat until the end of the row, sl st to the 1st fpsc of

the round to join (48)

Cut and fasten off.

Make a pompom from the cream yarn and fix it to the end of the hat.

How to crochet fpdc & bpdc (Front post double crochet – Back post double crochet)

Sew two small buttons onto the boots.

Feel free to tag me (@freeamigurumii) in your photos on Instagram or Facebook if you’d like!
All Finished.

Desinger : https://www.lilleliis.com/

Materials:

• DK (8ply) weight Drops Cotton Light (100% cotton; 50g / 105m) – white, red and green
• small amount of woollen yarn for embroidering the hair
• crochet hook 3  mm
• polyester fiberfill
• safety eyes (Ø 6mm)
• pink felt
• snowflake button
• 3 tiny buttons for the coat
• black embroidery thread for the face and clothing
• darning and embroidery needles

Abbreviations:
ch – chain, sc – single crochet, st(s) – stitch(es), rep – repeat

• WORK IN CONTINUOUS ROUNDS. DO NOT JOIN OR TURN UNLESS OTHERWISE INSTRUCTED.
• IT WOULD BE WISE TO USE A STITCH MARKER AND PLACE IT IN THE FIRST STITCH OF EACH ROUND TO MARK THE BEGINNING OF IT.
• LEAVE EACH PIECE A LONG TAIL FOR SEWING.

PATTERN

HEAD

Crochet from top to bottom.

1: White color. Start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]

2: Work 2 sc in each st around [12]

3: (Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times [18]

4: (Sc in each of next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times [24]

5: (Sc in each of next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times [30]

6: (Sc in each of next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times [36]

7: (Sc in each of next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times [42]

8-16: Sc in each st around

Fasten safety eyes between round 12. and 13. Insert the first eye between them, then count 3 holes to the left and insert the second eye in the next hole. Close the washers from the inside of the piece.

17: (Sc in each of next 5 sts, sc2tog) rep 6 times [36]

18: (Sc in each of next 4 sts, sc2tog) rep 6 times [30]

19: (Sc in each of next 3 sts, sc2tog) rep 6 times [24]

20: (Sc in each of next 2 sts, sc2tog) rep 6 times [18]

Fill the head with fiberfill.

EAR (make 2)

1: White color. Start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]

2: Sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next 2 sts [8]

3: Sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next 2 sts, sc in next st [10]

4: Sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 2 sts [12]

5: Sc in each st around

6: Sc2tog around [6]

Attach the ears at rounds 14 and 15. Embroider a huge mouth and stitch tiny eyebrows. Cut cheeks of felt and sew them to the corners of the mouth.

HAT

1: White color. Start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]

2: Work 2 sc in each st around [12]

3-4: Sc in each st around

Stuff the tassel.

5: (Sc in next st, skip next st) 6 times [6]

6: Continue in red color. Sc in each st around

7: Sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st [7]

8: Sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts [8]

9: Sc in next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st [9]

10: Sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts [10]

11: Sc in next 9 sts, 2 sc in next st [11]

12: Sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 sts [12]

13: Sc in next 11 sts, 2 sc in next st [13]

14: Sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 6 sts [14]

15: Sc in next 13 sts, 2 sc in next st [15]

16: Sc in next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 7 sts [16]

17: Sc in next 15 sts, 2 sc in next st [17]

18: Sc in next 8 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 8 sts [18]

19: (Sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 3 times [21]

20: Sc in each st around

21: (Sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 3 times [24]

22: Sc in each st around

23: (Sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times [30]

24: (Sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times [36]

25: (Sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times [42]

26-29: Sc in each st around

Add a small amount of stuffing into the hat. Attach the hat to the head slightly off to one side. Embroider some hair. Attach a snowflake button to the hat.

LEGS AND BODY

Crocheted in one piece, from the bottom up. The body starts with two legs, which are later crocheted together.

1: White color. Start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]

2: Work 2 sc in each st around [12]

3: (Sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 3 times [15]

4-8: Continue in green color. Sc in each st around

Fasten off, leaving a short yarn tail. Put the first leg aside and crochet the second leg with the same instructions. Do not fasten off the second leg, we will continue crocheting on this leg to make the body.

9: In this round we will join the legs. Sc in the next 2 sts on the second leg, sc in each of next 15 sts around the first leg, continue 13 sc around the second leg. In the end of the round you have joined the legs into one piece [30]

10: Sc in each st around

Close the hole between the legs using the short yarn tail left for the first leg.

11: (Sc in the next 8 sts, sc2tog) rep 3 times [27]

12-13: White color. Sc in each st around

14: Red color. Sc in each st around

15: (Sc in the next 7 sts, sc2tog) rep 3 times [24]

16: Sc in each st around

Fill the legs and body, keep stuffing as you go.

17: (Sc in the next 6 sts, sc2tog) rep 3 times [21]

18-19: Sc in each st around

20: (Sc in the next 5 sts, sc2tog) rep 3 times [18]

21: Sc in each st around

Sew the head to the body. With black thread emboider two lines – between rounds 11 and 12 and between rounds 13 and 14. Stitch a buckle on the front.

ARM (make 2)

1: White color. Start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]

2: Work 2 sc in each st around [12]

3: Sc in each st around

4: Red color. Sc in each st around

5: (Sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog) rep 3 times [9]

6-7: Sc in each st around

Fill only the tip of the arm.

8: (Sc in next st, sc2tog) rep 3 times [6]

9: Sc in each st around

Sew the arms to the body. Embellish the coat with 3 little buttons.

Abbreviations:
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
sc2tog=single crochet 2 together
hdc= half double crochet
dc=double crochet
st = stitch
sl knot = slip knot
slst = slip stitch
fo = fasten off
mm = move marker

Materials:
1. Crochet yarn: green, white and gold
2. 2mm crochet hook
3. Beads: pink and green
4. Sewing thread and needle
5. Poly-fill fiber

Finished dimension:
approx. 10cm H x 6cm W

Tree
Work on 2 strands of green color yarn
beg sl knot, make a big loop of yarn as the hanging string
r1 – ch2, 3sc in 2nd ch from hook (3 st)
r2 – *2sc in each st* repeat 3 times (6 st), mm
r3 – *2sc in first st, 1sc in next st* repeat 3 times (9st), mm
r4 – *2sc in first st, 1sc in next 2st* repeat 3 times (12st), mm
r5 – *2sc in first st, 1sc in next 3st* repeat 3 times (15st), mm
r6 – *2sc in first st, 1sc in next 4st* repeat 3 times (18st), mm
r7 – *2sc in first st, 1sc in next 5st* repeat 3 time (21st), mm
r8 – *2sc in first st, 1sc in next 6st* repeat 3 times (24st), mm
r9 – *2sc in first st, 1sc in next 7st* repeat 3 times (27st), mm
r10 – *2sc in first st, 1sc in next 8st* repeat 3 times (30st), mm
r11 – *2sc in first st, 1sc in next 9st* repeat 3 times (33st), mm
r12 – *2sc in first st, 1sc in next 10st* repeat 3 times (36st), mm
r13 – *2sc in first st, 1sc in next11st* repeat 3 times (39st), mm
r14 – *2sc in first st, 1sc in next 12st* repeat 3 times (42st), mm
r15 – *2sc in first st, 1sc in next 13st* repeat 3 times (45st), mm
r16 – *2sc in first st, 1sc in next 14st* repeat 3 times (48st), mm
r17 – *2sc in first st, 1sc in next 15st* repeat 3 times (51st), mm
r18 – *2sc in first st, 1sc in next 16st* repeat 3 times (54st), mm
r19 – *sc2tog* repeat 27 times  (27st), mm
r20- *sc2tog* repeat 13 times (14st), mm
Stuff the tree with poly-fill firmly.
r21- *sc2tog* repeat 7 times (7st), mm
r22 to r28- 1 sc in each st, fo

Star
Work on 2 strands of gold color yarn
beg sl knot
r1 – ch2, *sc in 2nd ch from hook , ch2, slst into the 1st ch* repeat 5 times, slst into 1st ch, fo.
Sew the star onto the tree top.

Snow Garland
Work on 2 strands of white color yarn
beg sl knot
r1 – ch211, turn
r2 – sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc, dc, hdc, sc, slst, *sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc, slst* repeat 34 times, sc fo.

Wind the snow garland  from tree bottom to tree top, secure with pins, sew to the tree body.

Sew some pink and green beads (alternate color) to the snow garland.

More Amigurumi Christmas Tree Ideas:

The gnome Christmas tree ornament is a free crochet pattern for a cute and easy Christmas decoration! The finished size of gnome amigurumi is about 10 cm (3.9″).

Materials:

• Yarn: Gazzal Baby Cotton
• Hook size: 1.75 mm
• 8 mm halfbeads for eyes
• Decorate button
• Pink dry pastel crayon
• Sewing needle and scissors
• Fiberfill

Abbreviations:
R = row
mc = magic circle
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
st = stitch
inc = 2 sc in the next stitch
dec = single crochet 2 stitches together
FLO = front loop only
BLO = back loop only
F.o. = finish off
= 12 = number of stitches you should have at the end of the row
( )*6 = repeat whatever is between the brackets the number of times stated

Hat
R 1: 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2: (inc)* 6 (12)
R 3-4: 12 sc (2 rows)
R 5: (1 sc, inc)*6 (18)
R 6-7: 18 sc (2 rows)
R 8: (2 sc, inc)*6 (24)
R 9-10: 24 sc (2 rows)
R 11: (3 sc, inc)*6 (30)
R 12-13: 30 sc (2 rows)
R 14: (4 sc, inc)*6 (36)
R 15-16: 36 sc (2 rows)
R 17: (15 sc, inc)*6 (42)
R 18-19: 42 sc (2 rows)
R 20: (6 sc, inc)*6 (48)
R 21-22: 48 sc (2 rows)
R 23: (7 sc, inc)*6 (54)
R 24: 54 sc
R 25: FLO 54 sc
R 26: (8 sc, inc)*6 (60)
R 27-28: 60 sc (2 rows)
Change to white yarn:
R 29: reverse sc in every st to the end of row
F.o.

Nose
With beige yarn:
R 1: 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2: (inc)* 6 (12)
R 3: (3 sc, inc)*3 (15)
R 4-8: 15 sc (5 rows)
R 9: (3 sc, dec)*3 (12)
R 10: (dec)*6 (6)
F.o., leaving a tail for sewing.

Head
Go to the R 25 of the hat and join the beige yarn.
R 1: BLO 54 sc
R 2-5: 54 sc (4 rows)
R 6: (7 sc, dec)*6 (48)
R 7: (6 sc, dec)*6 (42)
R 8: (5 sc, dec)*6 (36)
R 9: (4 sc, dec)*6 (30)
R 10: (3 sc,dec)*6 (24)
R 11: (2 sc, dec)*6 (18)
R 12: (1 sc, dec)*6 (12)
R 13: (dec)*6 (6)
F.o.

Make a pompom using white and other one yarn. Sew it on the top of the hat.

Sew the nose to the head, glue eyes to the face. Tint cheeks using dry pastel crayon.
Make a loop for hanging (50 ch).

More Amigurumi Ornament Ideas: