You Will Need
Stylecraft Special DK, (or alternative dk yarn) 1 ball each in:

• Stone (1710)
• Denim (1302)
• Plum (1061)
• Black (1002)

4mm crochet hook
Embroidery needle
Stitch marker
Toy stuffing
Pins (optional)
2 x 12mm black safety eyes
2 x black/brown 9mm button

Measurements
Approx. 31cm (12in) tall

Tension
Tension is not important for this project, but make sure your stitches are tight so the stuffing does not show through.

Notes
The body is worked first and the dungarees are slipped on after. Construction starts with the first and second leg, which are then joined and you will then continue on making the body and head of the crochet bear in one piece. Placing the straps and buttons is easier when teddy is actually wearing the dungarees.

Abbreviations
You can find a full list of all abbreviations we use in our abbreviations and conversions guide. This crochet teddy bear pattern is written in UK terminology but you can easily convert it to US terms using the guide.

First leg
Using Stone, make a crochet magic loop.
Round 1 8dc in magic loop. [8 sts]
Round 2 2dc in each st. [16 sts]
Round 3 (Dc, 2dc in next st) eight times. [24 sts]
Rounds 4-6 Dc in each st around. [24 sts]
Round 7 7dc, dc2tog 5 times, 7dc. [19 sts]
Round 8 5dc, dc2tog 4 times, 6dc. [15 sts]
Rounds 9-16 Dc in each st around. [15 sts]

Fasten off (first leg only).

Second leg
Repeat as for first leg but do not fasten off. When at the back of the leg, dc about 4sts to get to the inside of the leg.
Round 17 Ch3. Attach to the first leg with dc (line both legs together to get the right stitch). Dc all around including both sides of the 3ch stitches. [36 sts]

Stuff the legs.
Rounds 18-21 Dc in each st around. [36 sts]
Round 22 (8dc, 2dc in next st) four times. [40 sts]
Round 23 Dc in each st around [40 sts]
Round 24 (9dc, 2dc in next st) four times. [44 sts]
Round 25 Dc in each st around [44 sts]
Round 26 (10dc, 2dc in next st) four times. [48 sts]
Round 27 Dc in each st around [48 sts]
Round 28 (11dc, 2dc in next st) four times. [52 sts]
Round 29 Dc in each st around. [52 sts]
Round 30 (12dc, 2dc in next st) four times. [56 sts]
Rounds 31-33 Dc in each st around. [56 sts]
Round 34 (12dc, dc2tog) four times. [52 sts]
Round 35 Dc in each st around. [52 sts]
Round 36 (11dc, dc2tog) four times. [48 sts]
Round 37 Dc in each st around. [48 sts]
Round 38 (10dc, dc2tog) four times. [44 sts]
Round 39 Dc in each st around. [44 sts]
Round 40 (9dc, dc2tog) four times. [40 sts]
Round 41 Dc in each st around. [40 sts]
Round 42 (8dc, dc2tog) four times. [36 sts]
Round 43 Dc in each st around. [36 sts]
Stuff here.
Round 44 (4dc, dc2tog) six times. [30 sts]
Round 45 Dc in each st around. [30 sts]
Round 46 (3dc, dc2tog) six times. [24 sts]
Round 47 Dc in each st around. [24 sts]
Round 48 (2dc, dc2tog) six times. [18 sts]
Round 49 Dc in each st around. [18sts]
Round 50 (1dc, dc2tog) six times). [12 sts]
Round 51 Dc in each st around. [12 sts]
Stuff here and continue to make head.
Round 52 2dc 12 times. [24 sts]
Round 53 (3dc, 2dc in next st) six times. [30 sts]
Round 54 (4dc, 2dc in next st) six times. [36 sts]
Round 55 (5dc, 2dc in next st) six times. [42 sts]
Round 56 (6dc, 2dc in next st) six times [48 sts]
Round 57 (7dc, 2dc in next st) six times. [54 sts]
Round 58 (8dc, 2dc in next st) six times. [60 sts]
Rounds 59-66 Dc in each st around. [60 sts] *Attach eyes between rounds 61-62, 12 sts apart.
Round 67 (8dc, dc2tog) six times. [54 sts]
Round 68 (7dc, dc2tog) six times. [48 sts]
Round 69 (6dc, dc2tog) six times. [42 sts]
Round 70 (5dc, dc2tog) six times. [36 sts]
Round 71 (4dc, dc2tog) six times. [30 sts]
Round 72 (3dc, dc2tog) six times. [24 sts]
Stuff here.
Round 73 (2dc, dc2tog) six times. [18 sts]
Round 74 (1dc, dc2tog) six times. [12 sts]
Round 75 Dc2tog six times. [6 sts]
Sew to close hole, fasten off.

Mouth
Using Stone, make a crochet magic loop.
Round 1 6dc. [6 sts]
Round 2 2dc in each st. [12 sts]
Round 3 (1dc, 2dc in next st) six times. [18 sts]
Round 4 (2dc, 2dc in next st) six times. [24 sts]
Round 5 (3dc, 2dc in next st) six times. [30 sts]
Rounds 6-9 Dc in each st around. [30 sts]
Ss and fasten off, leaving a long tail to sew to face.

Arms (make 2)
Using Stone, make a crochet magic loop..
Round 1 6dc. [6 sts]
Round 2 2dc in each st. [12 sts]
Round 3 (3dc, 2dc in next st) six times. [15 sts]
Rounds 4-6 Dc in each st around. [15 sts]
Round 7 (1dc, dc2tog) five times. [10 sts]
Rounds 8-29 DDc in each st around. [10 sts]

Ss and fasten off, leaving a long tail to sew in ends. Stuff the hands only.

Dungarees (first leg)
Using Denim, start at leg hole.
Round 1 Ch18, ss to 1st stitch to make a circle. [18 sts]
Rounds 2-8 Dc in each st around. [18 sts] Ss on first leg only.

Second leg
Work as for first leg up to round 8.
Round 9 Ch4, ss to first leg. Dc all the way round, including both sides of chain stitches [44 sts]
Rounds 10-13 Dc in each st around. [44 sts]
Round 14 (10dc, 2dc in next st) four times. [48 sts]
Round 15 Dc in each st around. [48 sts]
Round 16 (11dc, 2dc in next st) four times. [52 sts]
Round 17 Dc in each st around [52 sts]
Round 18 (12dc, 2dc in next st) four times. [56 sts]
Rounds 19-23 Dc in each st around. [56 sts]
Round 24 (5dc, dc2tog) eight times. [48 sts]
Round 25 Dc in each st around. [48 sts]
Round 26 (4dc, dc2tog) eight times. [40 sts]
Round 27 Dc in each st around. [40 sts]
Round 28 (8dc, dc2tog) four times. [36 sts]
Round 29 Dc in each st around. [36 sts]
Round 30 (7dc, dc2tog) four times. [32 sts]
Round 31-33 Dc in each st around. [32 sts]
Ss and fasten off. Sew in ends.

Straps (make 2)
Using Denim, start off with long yarn to help sew in after. Ch25.
Round 1 Dc 2nd chain from hook. Dc across. Ch1, turn. [24 sts]
Round 2 Dc in each st across. [24 sts]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail to sew in the ends. (Straps will measure 5 inches across)

Button loops (make 2)
Measure the middle of the dungarees. Go 4 stitches to the right. Using Denim, ss yarn, ch3 then ss to the next stitch to create your first loop. Cut a long length of yarn to sew in ends.
Repeat for the left loop, 6th stitch from the stitch from the right loop.

Hat
Using Denim, make a crochet magic loop.
Round 1 6dc in loop. [6 sts]
Round 2 2dc in each st. [12 sts]
Change to Plum.
Round 3 (1dc, 2dc in next st) six times. [18 sts]
Round 4 (2dc, 2dc in next st) six times. [24 sts]
Change to Denim.
Round 5 (3dc, 2dc in next st) six times. [30 sts]
Round 6 (4dc, 2dc in next st) six times. [36 sts] Change to Plum.
Round 7 (5dc, 2dc in next st) six times. [42 sts]
Round 8 (6dc, 2dc in next st) six times. [48 sts] Change to Denim.
Round 9 (7dc, 2dc in next st) six times. [54 sts]
Keep changing colours every 2 rounds.
Rounds 10-21 Dc in each st around. [54 sts]
Ss, fasten off, leaving a long tail to sew in ends (if you want to sew the hat to the head, leave a longer piece of yarn).

Ears (make 2)
Using Stone, make a crochet magic loop.
Round 1 6dc. [6 sts]
Round 2 2dc in each st. [12 sts]
Round 3 (1dc, 2dc in next st) six times. [18 sts]
Rounds 4-8 Dc in each st around. [18 sts]
Ss and fasten off, leaving a long tail to sew to hat.

Pom-pom
Using Plum, wrap yarn around three fingers 20 times. Cut off a long piece of yarn. Take the yarn off your fingers and wrap the loose bit of yarn in the middle, secure tightly. Using scissors, trim off the loops. Trim the pom-pom to make it more circular, making sure to leave a long piece of yarn to sew to the hat.

Scarf
Using Plum, start off with a length of long yarn to help sew in the ends afterwards.
Ch 61.
Round 1 Dc in 2nd chain from hook, dc in each st across. Ch1, turn. [60 sts]
Round 2 Dc in each st across, ch1, turn. [60 sts]
Round 3 Repeat row 2, but don’t ch1 and turn.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail of yarn to sew in ends.

To make up
Attach mouth to the head and stuff evenly before sewing it completely (use your pins to help keep it in place whilst sewing). Using black yarn, sew your nose in the middle of the mouth piece, going back and forth in the same stitches to create the nose. Then make a line down to create the mouth part. Using the same yarn, create two eyebrows above the eyes. Secure well to the back of the head where the hat will be placed so you will not be able to see the black yarn.

Attach ears to the hat. If you are sewing the hat to teddy’s head, you can sew the ears through the head too, but make sure you attach the pom-pom on first. Sew any loose ends to tidy up.

Sew any loose ends on the dungarees. Sew buttons to 1 side of the straps. Place button in buttonhole, pull strap over to shoulder and criss cross to the other side of the back. Do the same to the other strap and secure the back straps by sewing them to the dungarees. This works best when the dungarees are being worn by the bear so you can place the straps in the right place. Sew loose ends on scarf. Tie the scarf to the teddy’s neck, sew in place if you wish for it to be not taken off.

We hope you’ve enjoyed this free crochet teddy bear pattern.

YARN USAGE
Camille H 25 cm
Blue: 50 g
Off-white: 50 g
Soft pink: 50 g
A few meters of white sewing thread for buttons.
A few meters of black sewing thread for eyebrows,nose and mouth.

MATERIALS
Filling, 4 buttons
Eyes: 9 mm
Double pointed needles: 3,0 mm
The given amounts of yarn are for guidance only.

ABBREVATIONS
AND DEFINITIONS
st Stitch
s1 Slip 1 st
k Knit
p Purl
1 inc 1 increase (lift the loop between the stitches from the back with the left needle. Knit it as a knit stitch).
k2 tog Knit 2 stitches together
k3 tog Knit 3 stitches together
p2 tog Purl 2 stitches together
SSK Slip, slip, knit (decrease). Slip 2 stitches knit-wise one at a time. Insert left needle from the right through front loop of both sts and k2 tog.
PSSO Pass slipped stitch over
… * Repeat what is shown in these stars to the end of the row (or repeat as indicated).
(..) At the end of the line, specifies the number of sts on the needle.
NB! The teddy bear is knitted in stocking stitch.
The cast on and first two rows are worked in Blue. Continue working alternately 2 rows Off-white and
2 rows Blue. Always change colour at the beginning of a purl row.
Be sure that you knit the edge stitches tight enough, especially when changing colour, in order to create
a nice edge for joining.

Vintage
a wonderful wool yarn with bamboo
The bamboo adds softness and lightness to the yarn, and the wool contributes with its well-known
excellent durability.
Wool is a sturdy material that requires very little washing and lasts for a very long time. It is one of
the reasons why some consider wool to be among the most sustainable materials.
Vintage is perfect for crocheting and knitting small animals that you want to give a “woolen” look. It is
also suitable for a nice sweater.
70% Wool, 30% Bamboo,25 g/60 m.

CAMILLE
BODY (BLUE & OFF-WHITE)
Knitted from the top down.
Cast on 10 st in Blue yarn.
1.) purl (10)
2.) k1, 1 inc x 9, k1 (19)
3.) purl (19)
4.) k4, 1 inc, k1 x 2, k7,
k1, 1 inc x 2, k4 (23)

5. – 7.) Stocking stitch (23)
   8- ) k3, k1, 1 inc x 5, k8,1 inc, k1 x 5, k2 (33)
   9 – 15.) Stocking stitch (33)
   16.) k3, k2, 1 inc x 3, k15, 1 inc, k2 x 3, k3 (39)
   17 – 23.) Stocking stitch (39)
   24.) k8, k2 tog, SSK, k15, k2 tog, SSK, k8 (35)
   25.) purl (35)
   26.) k7, k2 tog, SSK, k13, k2 tog, SSK, k7 (31)
   27.) purl (31)
   28.) k6, k2 tog, SSK, k11, k2 tog, SSK, k6 (27)
   29.) purl (27)
   30.) k5, k2 tog, SSK, k9, k2 tog, SSK, k5 (23)
   31.) purl (23)
   32.) k4, k2 tog, SSK, k7, k2 tog, SSK, k4 (19)
   33.) purl (19)
   34.) k1, SSK x 4, k1, k2 tog x 4, k1 (11)
   Cut the yarn 50 cm from the work and pull it through the stitches. Tighten.
   
   EMBROIDERED HEART (SOFT PINK)
   Embroider the heart on the body according to the diagram. The bottom of the heart is positioned on
   the 5th Off-white stripe counted from the top and 18 st from the right edge.
   Sew the body together at the back. Leave a hole open. Stuff the body with filling and sew the hole
   together.
   
   HEAD (BLUE & OFF-WHITE)
   Begin at the back.
   Cast on 9 st in Blue yarn.
   1.) purl (9)
   2.) k1, *k1, 1 inc * x 7, k1 (16)
   3.) purl (16)
   4.) k1, 1 inc, k2, 1 inc x 7, k1 (24)
   5.) purl (24)
   6.) k1, 1 inc, k3, 1 inc x 7, k2 (32)
   7.) purl (32)
   8.) k1, 1 inc, k4, 1 inc x 7, k3 (40)
   9.) purl (40)
   10.) k1, 1 inc, k5, 1 inc x 7, k4 (48)
   11.) purl (48)
   12.) k1, 1 inc, k6, 1 inc x 7, k5 (56)
   13- 21.) Stocking stitch (56)
   22.) k4, k2 tog, k1 x 5,
   k3 tog, k12, k3 tog,
   k1, k2 tog x 5, k4 (42)
   23.) purl (42)
   24.) k13, k3 tog, k10, k3 tog, k13 (38)
   25.) purl (38)
   26.) k12, k3 tog, k8, k3 tog, k12 (34)
   27.) purl (34)
   28.) k11, k3 tog, k6, k3 tog, k11 (30)
   29.) purl (30)
   30.) k10, k3 tog, k4, k3 tog, k10 (26)
   31- 33.) Stocking stitch (26)
   34.) k1, k2 tog, k6, k2 tog, k4, k2 tog,
   k6, k2 tog, k1 (22)
   35.) purl (22)
   36.) k1, k2 tog x 7, k1 (15)
   37.) purl (15)
   38.) k2 tog x 7, k1 (8)
   Cut the yarn 50 cm from the work and pull it through the stitches. Tighten. Position the eyes 3 cm from the tip of the nose and with about 3 cm in between. Sew in the ends and sew the head together.
   Leave a hole open, stuff the head with filling and sew the hole together. Embroider eyebrows, nose and mouth with the black sewing thread. Shape the head by pulling a piece of yarn from the underside of the head (the part that will be sewn to the body) up to the underside of the one eye. Sew the yarn around one stitch and pull it back again. Tighten the thread to form an eye socket and fasten the threads by tying a knot. Repeat for the other eye.
   Sew the head onto the body.
   
   EARS (BLUE & OFF-WHITE, 2 X)
   Cast on 23 st in Blue yarn.
   1.) purl (23)
   2.) knit (23)
   3.) purl (23)
   4.) k5, k2 tog, SSK, k5, k2 tog,
   SSK, k5 (19)
   5.) purl (19)
   6.) k4, k2 tog, SSK, k3,
   k2 tog, SSK, k4 (15)
   7.) purl (15)
   8.) k3, k2 tog, SSK, k1,
   k2 tog, SSK, k3 (11)
   9.) purl (11)
   10.) knit (11)
   Cut the yarn 30 cm from the work and pull it through the stitches. Tighten. Use the same piece of yarn to sew the ear together at the back. Shape the ear by folding the bottom edge and sew the ear onto the head.
   Repeat for the other ear.
   
   ARMS (BLUE & OFF-WHITE, 2 X)
   Cast on 6 st in Blue yarn.
   1.) purl (6)
   2.) k1, 1 inc x 5, k1 (11)
   3.) purl (11)
   4.) k1, 1 inc, k9, 1 inc, k1 (13)
   5 – 25.) Stocking stitch (13)
   26.) k3, SSK, k3, k2 tog, k3 (11)
   27.) purl (11)
   28.) k3, SSK, k1, k2 tog, k3 (9)
   29.) purl (9)
   30.) k3, s1, k2 tog, PSSO, k3 (7)
   Cut the yarn 50 cm from the work and pull it through the stitches. Tighten.

Use the same piece of yarn to sew the arm together. Leave a hole open, stuff the arm with filling and sew
the hole together. Attach the arms according to the illustration. The cast on edge goes at the top. Use a long darning needle. On the outer side of the arm, pull the yarn through the button.

LEGS (BLUE & OFF-WHITE, 2 X)
Cast on 9 st in Blue yarn.
1.) purl (9)
2.) k1, 1 inc x 8, k1 (17)
3.) purl (17)
4.) k2, 1 inc x 8, k1 (25)
5.) purl (25)
6.) k3, 1 inc x 8, k1 (33)
7.) purl (33)
8.) k4, 1 inc x 8, k1 (41)
9 – 13.) Stocking stitch (41)
14.) k15, SSK, k7, k2 tog, k15 (39)
15.) purl (39)
16.) k15, SSK, k5, k2 tog, k15 (37)
17.) purl (37)
18.) k10, cast off 17 st, k10 (20)
19.) p1, p2 tog, p6, p2 tog (the stitch gathers the 2 parts), p6, p2 tog, p1(17)
20 – 31.) Stocking stitch (17)
32.) k3, k2 tog, SSK, k3, k2 tog, SSK, k3 (13)
33.) purl (13)
34.) k2, k2 tog, SSK, k1, k2 tog, SSK, k2 (9)
Cut the yarn 50 cm from the work and pull it through the stitches. Sew in the ends. Sew the upper side of the foot together first along the cast-off edge. Then sew the leg together at the back. Leave a hole open, stuff the leg with filling and sew the hole together.
Attach the legs according to the illustration. Use a long darning needle. On the outer side of the leg,
pull the yarn through the button.

HEART (SOFT PINK)
Cast on 3 st.
1.) purl (3)
2.) k1, 1 inc, k1, 1 inc, k1 (5)
3.) purl (5)
4.) k1, 1 inc, k3, 1 inc, k1 (7)
5.) purl (7)
Cut the yarn, but leave the work on the needle. Cast 3 st on the empty needle and knit another identical piece, but this time do not cut the yarn. Push the two pieces together on the needle.
6.) k7, continue knitting with k7 on the other piece (14)
7.) purl (14)
8.) k1, SSK, k8, k2 tog, k1 (12)
9.) purl (12)
10.) k1, SSK, k6, k2 tog, k1 (10)
11.) purl (10)
12.) k1, SSK, k4, k2 tog, k1 (8)
13.) purl (8)
14.) k1, SSK, k2, k2 tog, k1 (6)
15.) purl (6)
16.) k1, SSK, k2 tog, k1 (4)
17.) purl (4)
18.) SSK, k2 tog (2)
19.) p2 tog (1)
Cut the yarn and pull it through the stitch using a darning needle. Make another identical heart. Sew the two hearts together with small overcast stitches leaving a hole open. Stuff the heart with filling, sew the hole together and fasten the ends.

Done!

Materials :

• DROPS safran (50 g/160m)
  color 21, 22, 17 (or similar in
  brown, dark brown, white),
  color of choice
• DROPS Bomull-Lin farge 11
• Little bit of black (for nose)
• Hook 2.5 mm
• Needle
• Safety eyes (10.5mm)/
  buttons/something for eyes

Note :
This pattern uses basic crochet techniques and should be possible to make even for the beginner. You should know ch (chain stitch), sc (single chain), sl st (slip stitch), dc (double crochet). I would also
recommend googling the «magic ring» if you’re not familiar with that technique, however not a requirement. I would also recommend learning the «single increase» and «single decrease» technique when crocheting amigurumis using cotton yarn.

Start off making eyes and nose
EYES (make 2) – using light brown
R1: Magic ring, 6 sc in MR
R2: Inc x 6 (12)
End round with a sl st to 1st sc from, cut thread and leave long
tail for attaching later
If the teddy is for a baby/very smal child you can crochet the R1 using
black yarn or later sew on eyes (instead of using safety eyes)

NOSE – using light brown
R1: Magic ring, 6 sc in MR
R2: Inc x 6 (12)
R3: (1sc, inc) x 6, sl st to 1st sc last round (18)
R4: 1ch, sc around (18). Sew on black nose ( figure 2b)

HEAD – using dark brown
R1: Magic ring, 6 sc in MR
R2: Inc x 6 (12)
R3: (1sc, inc) x 6 (18)
R4: (inc, 2sc) x 6 (24)
R5: (2sc, inc, 1 sc) x 6 (30)
R6: (4sc, inc) x 6 (36)
R7: (1sc, inc, 4sc) x 6 (42)
R8: (3sc, inc, 3sc) x 6 (48)
R9: ( 7sc, inc) x 6 (54)
R10: (inc, 8sc) x 6 (60)
R11: (4sc, inc, 5sc) x 6 (66)
R12-R21: 10 rounds sc around (66)
Now we’re going to decrease
R22: (9sc, dec) x 6 (60)
R23: (8sc, dec) x 6 (54)
R24: (7sc, dec) x 6 (48)
R25: (6sc, dec) x 6 (42)
R26: (5sc, dec) x 6 (36)
R27: (4sc, dec) x 6 (30)
Attach eyes, and nose and start stufng a little before you continue
R28: (3sc, dec) x 6 (24)
R29: (2sc, dec) x 6 (18) – Add more stuffing
R30: (1sc, dec) x 6 (12)
R31: sc around (12)!
It’s very important to add lots of stuffing especialy in the neck region

Add filing as you make the body
BODY – using white
The body is crocheted directly to the head
(Figure 3)
R1: 12 sc (12)
R2: (1sc, inc) x 6 (18)
R3: (inc, 2sc) x 6 (24)
R4: sc around (24)
Change to color of choice
R5: sc around (24)
R6:(2sc, inc, 1sc) x 6(30)
R7: 30 sc (30)
R8: 30 sc (30)
Change to white color
R9: 30 sc (30)
R10: (4sc, inc) x 6 (36)
R11: 36sc (36)
R12: 36sc (36)
Change to color of choice
R13:(1sc, inc, 4sc) x 6 (42)
R14: 42 sc (42)
R15: 42 sc (42)
R16: 42 sc (42)
Change to white color
R17: 42 sc (42)
R18:
(3sc, inc, 3sc) x 6 (48)
R19: 48sc (48)
R20: (inc, 7sc) x 6 (54)
Change to color of choice
R21: 54sc (54)
R22: 54sc (54)
R23: 54sc (54)
R24: 54sc (54)
R25: (dec, 7sc) x 6 (48)
R26: (6sc, dec) x 6 (42)
R27: (5sc, dec) x 6 (36)
R28: (4sc, dec) x 6 (30)
R29: (3sc, dec) x 6 (24)
R30: (2sc, dec) x 6 (18)
R31: (1sc, dec) x 6 (12)
R31: dec x 6 (6)

ARMS – using dark brown (make 2)
R1: Magic ring, 6 sc in MR
R2: Inc x 6 (12)
R3: (1sc, inc) x 6 (18)
R4: (inc, 2sc) x 6 (24)
R5: 24 fm (24)
R6: (2sc, dec) x 6 (18)
R7-8: 18 sc two rounds (18)
R9: (1sc, dec) x 6 (12)
R10-R35: 26 rounds 12 sc (12)
Flatten in end and sew together. (figure 4a-b)Fasten thread, leave long tail for attaching later.

LEGS – start off using light brown (make 2)
R1: Magic ring, 6 sc in MR
R2: Inc x 6 (12)
R3: (1sc, inc) x 6 (18)
R4: 1sc, 3in1 (3 sc in same st) x3, 8sc, inc x 2, 4sc (26)
R5: Front loop only; 26 sc (26)
Change color – dark brown
R6: 26 sc (26)
R7: 8 sc, dec, 16 sc (25)
R8: 7 sc, dec x 3, 12 sc (22)
R9: 4 sc, dec x 3, 12 sc (19)
R10: (2 sc, dec) x 4, 1 sc, dec (14)
R11-R27: 17 rounds 14 sc (14)
Same as for arms; flatten ends, make sure the toe tip fits (points upwards), crochet together. Fasten thread, and leave long tail for attaching later.

EARS – using dark brown (make 2)
R1: Magic ring, 6 sc in MR
R2: Inc x 6 (12)
R3: (1sc, inc) x 6 (18)
R4: (inc, 2sc) x 6 (24)
R5: (1sc, inc, 2sc) x 6 (30)
R6-8: Three rounds 30 sc (30)
Flatten ear and crochet together

SCARF
R1: Ch as many as you like
R2: Dc in each ch
Fasten off.

Attach

• Attch arms where head meets body
• Attach legs as seen in figure 7a – approx 7 rounds from center, and 8-9 st apart from each other.

MATERIALS (RECOMMENDATIONS IN PARENTHESES)
Medium weight yarn (worsted or aran) in 4 colors
Color A – Body color – 40 yards (Paintbox Yarns Cotton Aran Daffodil Yellow)
Color B – Main shirt color – 28 yards (Paintbox Yarns Cotton Aran Paper White)
Color C – Contrast color and nose – 24 yards (Paintbox Yarns Cotton Aran Pure Black)
Color D – Beret color – 11 yards (Paintbox Yarns Cotton Aran Tomato Red)
2.75 mm (C) hook (Clover Amour)
Toy stuffing (Fairfield Poly-Fil)
Stitch marker (Clover Quick Locking Stitch Markers Small – I LOVE these, they don’t leave big holes in your work!)
Embroidery needle (DMC Embroidery Needle)
Tapestry needle (DMC Tapestry Needle Size 16)
Scissors (Gingher Stork Scissors)
Sewing pins
To see a complete list of my FAVORITE amigurumi crochet tools and supplies, check out this blog post!

GAUGE
To achieve an 11 inch tall Monsieur Bear, this is the gauge: 12 single crochet stitches x 13 rows = 2×2 inches. Gauge is not as important as keeping a consistent tension so stuffing doesn’t show through your bear!
For a smaller bear, simply use DK weight yarn and a 2.25 mm (B) hook! The blue Monsieur Bear above was made with this yarn and hook combo! To learn more about switching up yarn weights for your amigurumi projects, check out this blog post!

STITCHES & ABBREVIATIONS
US TERMINOLOGY
ch – chain
mr – magic ring
rnd(s) – round(s)
st(s) – stitch(es)
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
inc – increase
inv dec – invisible decrease
dc – half double crochet
dc inc – half double crochet increase
FLO – front loop only
BLO – back loop only
rm – remove marker
pm – place marker
[ ] – repeat steps between brackets for the specified number of times
( ) – the number of stitches you should have at the end of each round

SPECIAL TECHNIQUES
Magic Ring – Watch tutorial here.
Invisible Decrease – Find tutorial here.
Finish off – Watch tutorial here.
Standing sc – Make a slipknot on your hook, insert hook into specified stitch and make a single crochet as normal.

NOTES
All sections are worked in a continuous round unless otherwise specified. Mark the beginning of each round with a stitch marker.
Demonstration photos are shown right-handed.
When stuffing legs and arms, use the end of your crochet hook to push the stuffing into it.
Attach pieces in the order presented in the pattern.

MONSIEUR BEAR PATTERN
MUZZLE (worked around foundation chain)
rnd 1: With color A, ch 5, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc 2, sc 3 in next st, sc 2, inc (10 sts)
rnd 2: [Inc, sc 2, inc 2] 2 times (16 sts)
rnd 3: [sc 1, inc, sc 3, inc, sc 1, inc] 2 times (22 sts)
rnd 4: Sc around (22 sts)
Sl st into next st, fasten off, leave a 15-inch tail for attaching.

NOSE
rnd 1: With color C, make a mr, sc 8 into mr. Sl st into first st. Leave a 20-inch tail for attaching and mouth. Weave in beginning yarn tail.

HEAD & BODY
rnd 1: With color A, make a mr, sc 6 into mr (6 sts)
rnd 2: [inc 1] 6 times (12 sts)
rnd 3: [sc 1, inc 1] 6 times (18 sts)
rnd 4: [sc 2, inc 1] 6 times (24 sts)
rnd 5: [sc 3, inc 1] 6 times (30 sts)
rnd 6: Sc around (30 sts)
rnd 7: [sc 4, inc 1] 6 times (36 sts)
rnd 8: [sc 5, inc 1] 6 times (42 sts)
rnd 9: [sc 6, inc 1] 6 times (48 sts)
rnd 10: Sc around (48 sts)
rnd 11: [sc 7, inc] 6 times (54 sts)
rnds 12-24: Sc around (54 sts for 13 rnds)
rnd 25: [sc 7, inv dec] 6 times (48 sts)
rnd 26: Sc around (48 sts)
rnd 27: [sc 6, inv dec] 6 times (42 sts)
rnd 28: [sc 5, inv dec] 6 times (36 sts)

IN THE FOLLOWING RNDS, YOU’LL START CHANGING COLOR. COUNT EACH SL ST AS A NORMAL ST, MAKING SURE TO SC INTO EACH SL ST.

BODY CONT.
rnd 29: Sc 1, change to color B, sl st, sc 3, inc [sc 5, inc] 5 times (42 sts) Cut color A and weave in end.
rnd 30: [sc 6, inc] 6 times (48 sts)

ATTACH MUZZLE AND EMBROIDER EYES NOW. 

rnd 31: Sc 2, change to color C, sl st, inc, [sc 7, inc] 5 times, sc 4 (54 sts) Don’t cut color B or C, you’ll be carrying them up on the inside.
rnd 32: Sc 3, change to color B, sl st, sc around (54 sts)
rnd 33: Sc around (54 sts)
rnd 34: Sc 3, change to color C, sl st, sc around (54 sts)
rnd 35: Sc 4, change to color B, sl st, sc around (54 sts)
rnd 36: Sc around (54 sts)
rnd 37: Sc 4, change to color C, sl st, sc around (54 sts)
rnd 38: Sc 5, change to color B, sl st, sc around (54 sts)
rnd 39: Sc around (54 sts)
rnd 40: Sc 5, change to color C, sl st, sc around (54 sts)
rnd 41: Sc 6, change to color B, sl st, sc around (54 sts)
rnd 42: Sc around (54 sts)
rnd 43: Sc 6, change to color C, sl st, inv dec, [sc 7, inv dec] 5 times (48 sts)

THE FOLLOWING RNDS USE FLO, BLO, AND STANDING SC. 

rnd 44: Sc 7, change to color B, in FLO, sl st 1, sc around (48 sts) Cut color C.
rnd 45: In FLO, sc 7, sl st 1. With color A in BLO of rnd 43, make a standing sc, continuing in BLO, sc around (48 sts) Cut color B and weave in ends.
rnd 46: Rm, in BLO of rnd 45, sc 7. In both loops, sc 1, pm, sc around (48 sts)
rnd 47: [sc 6, inv dec] 6 times (42 sts)
rnd 48: Sc around (42 sts) rnd 49: [sc 5, inv dec] 6 times (36 sts)
rnd 50: [sc 4, inv dec] 6 times (30 sts)
STUFF BODY FIRMLY AND CONTINUE STUFFING UNTIL CLOSED. 

rnd 51: [sc 3, inv dec] 6 times (24 sts)
rnd 52: [sc 2, inv dec] 6 times (18 sts)
rnd 53: [sc 1, inv dec] 6 times (12 sts)
rnd 54: [inv dec] 6 times (6 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a 12-inch tail. Finish off and weave in ends.

ARM (Make 2)
rnd 1: With color A, make a mr, sc 8 into mr (8 sts)
rnd 2: [sc 3, inc] 2 times (10 sts)
rnds 3-5: Sc around, change to color B in last sc of rnd 5 (10 sts for 3 rnds)

IN THE FOLLOWING ROUNDS, COUNT EACH SL ST AS A NORMAL ST, MAKING SURE TO SC IN EACH SL ST. 

rnd 6: Sl st, sc 9 (10 sts) Cut color A, double knot color A and B ends inside arm to stuff.
rnd 7: Sc 1, change to color C, sl st, sc 8 (10 sts) Don’t cut color B or C – carry through the inside. Double knot color C yarn end inside arm.
rnd 8: Sc 2, change to color B, sl st, sc 7 (10 sts)
rnd 9: Sc around (10 sts)
rnd 10: Sc 2, change to color C, sl st, sc 7 (10 sts)
rnd 11: Sc 3, change to color B, sl st, sc 6 (10 sts)
rnd 12: Sc around (10 sts)
rnd 13: Sc 3, change to color C, sl st, sc 6 (10 sts)
rnd 14: Sc 4, change to color B, sl st, sc 5 (10 sts)
rnd 15: Sc around (10 sts)
rnd 16: Sc 4, change to color C, sl st, sc 5 (10 sts)
rnd 17: Sc 5, change to color B, sl st, sc 4 (10 sts)
rnd 18: Sc around (10 sts)
rnd 19: Sc 5, change to color C, sl st, sc 4 (10 sts)
rnd 20: Sc 6, change to color B, sl st, sc 3 (10 sts)
rnd 21: Sc 9, sl st into last st of round (10 sts)
Fasten off, leave a 15-inch tail for attaching. Lightly stuff to allow bending. 

LEG (Make 2)
rnd 1: With color A, make a mr, sc 8 into mr (8 sts)
rnd 2: [sc 3, inc] 2 times (10 sts)
rnd 3: [sc 4, inc] 2 times (12 sts)
rnds 4-23: Sc around (12 sts for 20 rnds)
Fasten off, leave a 15-inch tail for attaching. Weave in beginning yarn tail. Lightly stuff to allow bending.

EAR (Make 1 or 2, you’ll be covering 1 side with beret)
rnd 1: With color A, make a mr, sc 7 into mr, sl st into first st of rnd (7 sts)
rnd 2: Ch 1 (count as st), turn work, hdc into same st, [hdc 1, hdc inc] 2 times, hdc 2, sl st into last st (10 sts)
Fasten off, leave a 12-inch tail for attaching. Weave in beginning yarn tail. 

BERET (joined rnds, not continuous spiral)
rnd 1: With color D, start with a mr, leaving an 8-inch tail on the outside for beret’s loop. Ch 3 (count as st), dc 10 (11 sts)
rnd 2: Sl st into ch of last round, ch 3 (count as st), dc in same st, [dc inc] 10 times (22 sts)
rnd 3: Sl st into ch of last round, ch 3 (count as st), dc inc, [dc 1, dc inc] 10 times (33 sts)
rnd 4: Sl st into ch of last round, ch 3 (count as st), dc 1, dc inc, [dc 2, dc inc] 10 times (44 sts)
rnd 5: Sl st into ch of last round, ch 3 (count as st), dc around (44 sts)
rnd 6: Sl st into ch of last round, ch 1 (count as st), sc 1, inv dec, [sc 2, inv dec] 10 times (33 sts)
Fasten off, leave a 30-inch tail for attaching. Make a loop with yarn tail at top of beret. Weave in a stitch inside hat and double knot to secure. 

ASSEMBLING THE MUZZLE
You’ll be attaching the nose to the muzzle and then using the excess yarn tail to embroider the mouth.
1. Position nose under 3rd rnd with knot towards the bottom.
2. Insert needle in center of muzzle.
3. Working counter-clockwise, bring needle up through next st of muzzle and nose.
4. Insert needle into muzzle through same hole you came up. Repeat steps 3 & 4 until you’ve gone around nose.
5. Bring needle up through center of muzzle.
6. Bring yarn down center of muzzle and insert into hole after rnd 1.
7. Bring needle up through hole to left and under rnd 3.
8. Bring needle and yarn through center line.
9. Insert needle under 2nd rnd to the right of center. Double knot in back to secure.

ATTACHING THE MUZZLE
1. Tuck the knot in by bringing needle up through st to right.
2. Center muzzle on face on opposite side of color changes, between rnds 17 & 27.
3. After positioning muzzle, insert needle through hole on face between rnds 26 and 27.
4. Working counter-clockwise, bring needle up through st above.
5. Bring needle up through next st of muzzle.
6. Insert needle back into same hole you came up through in step 4. Repeat steps 4-6 until you’ve attached most of muzzle.
7. Stuff muzzle when you’ve gone most of the way around. Continue repeating steps 4-6 until you’ve attached muzzle.
8. Once you’ve made it around the muzzle, insert needle into 1st st attached.
9. Weave yarn through a stitch inside of head and double knot to secure.

EMBROIDERING THE EYES

We’ll be embroidering U’s onto Monsieur Bear’s face for eyes! Use the image below for placement reference. I’ve chosen to freehand my eyes, but you can use a water soluble (removable) marker to draw your eyes on before embroidering if you’d like. My bear’s eyes go from rnd 13 to below rnd 17.

The key to face embroidery on crochet is to make sure to insert your needle into a stitch and not in a hole between stitches so your thread remains secure. It is also much easier to embroider on crochet before you’ve finished and stuffed your piece. To begin, cut a 30-inch piece of black yarn, thread your embroidery needle, and double knot end.
1. Starting from inside of head, bring needle up through st at 13th rnd.
2. Insert needle into stitch below.
3. Bring needle up through st.
4. Insert needle into the bottom of previous st.
5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 until you complete your eye.
6. Mirror steps 1-5 for the second eye. Secure thread by weaving through a st on inside of head and double knotting.

CHANGING COLOR

The pattern will read something like sc 4, change color. You will be changing color in the last sc (so the 4th sc in this example). Follow steps 1-3 below to change color. After each color change, the next st will be a sl st to reduce jagged colors. Treat each sl st like a normal st and sc into it in the following rnd.
1. Make a sc as normal until you get to the last yarn over.
2. Complete the last yarn over with your new color.
3. Pull through both loops on hook.
4. Follow each color change with a sl st in the next st with new color. Tie loose yarn ends inside body or weave in.

FLO, BLO, AND STANDING SC
Use the below as a reference for rnds 44-46. Crocheting in the FLO and BLO gives a great texture to the bottom of your amigurumi bear’s shirt.
1. Identify front loop of your sts. (It’s easier to see on the white!)
2. Insert hook into the front loop only. Finish your sc as normal and complete rnd 44.
3. Identify the back loop of rnd 43 by folding rnd 44 towards you.
4. Standing sc join – make a slip knot on your hook with color A.
5. Insert your hook into back loop of rnd 43. Complete sc.
6. Sc normally around in BLO until you get back to 1st sc of round.
7. Insert hook into first st of rnd.
8. Make a sc and put stitch marker in this st. This will mark the start of the following rnds.

ATTACHING THE ARMS
On the image below, the red dots show where you’ll be attaching your arm to the body starting with the left side. Attach your arm between rounds 29 and 30.
1. Pinch arm with color changes toward you.
2. Insert needle into next st to hide knot and begin sewing arm closed.
3. Insert needle through top and bottom stitches.
4. Make sure the yarn is coming over the arm opening and not to the side of it.
5. Repeat step 3 four more times until the arm opening is sewn shut.
6. Make sure color changes are on inside of bear’s arm, insert your needle through bottom of stitch under rnd 29.
7. Insert needle into bottom of arm (through both sides of arm).
8. Insert needle into same hole that needle came out of in step 6 and out through hole to left.
9. Repeat steps 7 & 8 until you reach end of arm. After last stitch, insert needle through same hole yarn came out.
10. To secure, bring needle out through body, weave through a few stitches and bring through body again. Cut yarn close to body.

ATTACHING THE LEGS
We’ll be attaching the legs between rnds 48 and 51. Place a sewing pin in the center of your bear at round 50. You will be connecting the legs to either side of the sewing pin. The legs will be slightly pinched to allow better bending. I’ve shown how to connect leg 2 below.
1. Insert needle through next st to hide knot.
2. Insert needle under rnd 50.
3. Insert needle in next st of leg from inside to outside.
4. Going into same hole yarn came out of in step 2, insert needle under rnd 49.
5. Insert needle in next st from inside to outside.
6. Insert needle in same hole yarn came out of and bring it out one to the left. Repeat steps 5 and 6 four more times.
7. Insert needle in next st of leg from inside to outside.
8. Insert needle under rnd 49.
9. Insert needle in next st of leg from inside to outside.
10. Insert needle under rnd 50.
11. Insert needle in next st of leg from inside to outside.
12. Insert needle in same hole yarn came out of and bring it out one to the left. Repeat steps 11 and 12 four more times.
13. Insert needle into top of 1st st attached.
14. Bring needle out through another part of body
15. Weave yarn through a few stitches. Repeat step 14 and cut close to the body to secure.

ATTACHING THE EARS
We’ll be attaching the ears to the top of the bear’s head. You’ll be covering the right ear with the beret, so if you want to omit the 2nd ear, you can! But… I say do it! Your amigurumi bear won’t be complete without both ears!
1. Insert needle through next st to hide knot.
2. Insert needle from front to back between rnds 4 and 5
3. Insert needle in hole on bottom of ear from back to front.
4. Insert needle through stitch between rnds 5 and 6.
5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 (moving to a space between the next 2 rnds) until you’ve attached ear to 4 sts.
6. Bring needle up through head, weave through a few stitches, bring needle up through head again and cut.

ATTACHING THE BERET
You’ll be attaching the beret over the amigurumi bear’s right ear.
1. Thread needle with yarn tail. Insert from inside of beret to outside in next st to hide knot.
2. Position beret over right ear where you’d like it to go. Work clockwise around the hat.
3. Insert needle into holes between stitches like shown.
4. Insert needle in next st from inside to outside of beret.
5. Insert needle into same st you came out of in step 3 and out next st to the left. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you’ve worked around hat. To secure, bring needle through head, weave through a few sts, bring needle through head again and cut yarn close to head.

Finished!

Abbreviations:
sc: single crochet    
ch: chain
St: Stitch
inc : increase
dec: decrease
Sl st : slip stitch
F/O: Fasten off

Materials:
3 mm crochet hook
5ply Milk cotton yarn in brown and dark brown
Needle for sewing
Stuff
Scissors
10 mm safety eyes
Note: work in continuous round

Head:
Use brown
R1: ch 2, starting from second chain from hook 6 sc   (6)
R2: inc, rep 6x (12)
R3: sc, inc, rep 6x (18)
R4: sc, inc, [2 sc, inc = rep 5x], sc (24)
R5: 3 sc, inc, rep 6x (30)
R6-8: sc around
R9: 12 sc, (inc = rep 6x), 12 sc (36)
R10: 13 sc, inc, (sc, inc = rep 5x), 12 sc (42)
R11: 14 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc = rep 5x), 12 sc (48)
R12: 7 sc, inc, rep 6x (54)
R13: sc around
R14: 4 sc, inc, [8 sc, inc = rep 5x], 4 sc (60)
R15-23: sc around
Attach safety eyes between R10  and R11, give space 14 sts.
R24: 4 sc, dec, [8 sc, dec = rep 5x], 4 sc (54)
R25: 7 sc, dec, rep 6x (48)
R26: 3 sc, dec, [6 sc, dec = rep 5x], 3 sc (42)
R27: 5 sc, dec, rep 6x (36)
R28: 2 sc, dec, [4 sc, dec = rep 5x], 2 sc (30)
R29: 3 sc, dec, rep 6x (24)
R30: 2 sc, dec, rep 6x (18)
stuff
R31: sc, dec, rep 6x (12)
R32: dec, rep 6x (6)
F/O

Ears (make 2):
Use brown
R1: ch 2, starting from second chain from hook 6 sc   (6)
R2: inc, rep 6x (12)
R3: 3 sc, inc, rep 3x (15)
R4: 2 sc, inc, rep 5x (20)
R5-6: sc around
R7: 2 sc, dec, rep 5x (15)
F/O leaving along tail for sewing.

Mouth (bottom part):
Use light brown
 R1: ch 2, starting from second chain from hook 5 sc   (5) ch 1, turn
R2:  inc, rep 5x (10)
F/O Leaving along tail for sewing.

Legs and Body:
Legs (make 2):
Use dark brown
R1: ch 2, starting from second chain from hook 6 sc   (6)
R2: inc, rep 6x (12)
R3: sc, inc, rep 6x (18)
R4: sc, inc, [2 sc, inc = rep 5x], sc (24)
R5: 9 sc, (inc = rep 6x), 9 sc (30)
R6:10 sc, inc, (sc, inc = rep 5x), 9 sc (36)
CC to light brown
R7-8: sc around
R9: 10 sc, dec, (sc, dec = rep 5x), 9 sc (30)
R10: 9 sc, (dec = rep 6x), 9 sc (24)   
R11: 4 sc, dec, rep 4x (20)
R12-18: sc around
stuff
F/O
Repeat all rounds of leg to make a second leg. The last stitch must be in the middle of left side, skip 2-3 sts if needed.
Don’t cut the yarn of second legs. We will continue crochet both legs together

Body:
Take second leg, ch 5 (both sides of chain will be counted as a stitch), make sure both legs face the same way.
R19: sc in all stitches of 1st leg (20), sc in each chain stitches (5), sc in all stitches of 2nd leg (20), sc in each chain stitches (20) (50 sts in total)
R20-23: sc around
R24: 8 sc, dec, rep 5x (45)
R25-27: sc around
R28: 13 sc, dec, rep 3x (42)
R29-31: sc around
R32: 12 sc, dec, rep 3x (39)
R33-35: sc around
R36: 11 sc, dec, rep 3x (36)
R37-39: sc around
R40: 4 sc, dec, rep 6x (30)
R41: 3 sc, dec, rep 6x (24)
R42: sc around
Stuff
F/O leaving along tail for sewing.

Tail:
Use brown
R1: ch 2, starting from second chain from hook 6 sc   (6)
R2: inc, rep 6x (12)
R3: sc, inc, rep 6x (18)
R4: sc around
R5: 4 sc, dec, rep 3x (15)
stuff
F/O leaving along tail for sewing

Arms (make 2):
Use brown
R1: ch 2, starting from second chain from hook 6 sc   (6)
R2: inc, rep 6x (12)
R3: sc, inc, rep 6x (18)
R4: 8 sc, inc, rep 2x (20)
R5-6: sc around
R7: (dec = rep 4x), 12 sc (16)
R8: (dec = rep 2x), 12 sc (14)
stuff
R9-24: sc around
Stuff
F/O leaving along tail for sewing.
Finishing:
Sew nose on R3-4
Use the same color of yarn of its head to sew the mouth. From upper side of R9-10 of head, insert the needle to bottom side of R8-9. Pull it out, then insert it again to one stitch of R9-10. Pull it out to the same point of beginning. Knot it tightly.
Sew the bottom part of mouth.
Sew ears on R16-17 of head. Give space 13 sts between them.
Sew body to head.
Sew arms.
Sew tail to back side of body.
Use ribbon as a bow for his accessory.

If you enjoy making amigurumi, here I share this easy and free amigurumi pattern for you for free. Your kids will love these toys.

Materials:

• Alize Bella yarn, 50 g/180 m (100% cotton)
• 1.5 mm crochet hook
• 2 mm glass beards for eyes
• Black embroidery floss
• Pink dry pastel crayon
• Sewing needle and scissors
• Fiberfill

Abbreviations:
R = row
mc = magic circle
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
inc = 2 sc in the next stitch
dec = single crochet 2 stitches together
F.o. = finish off
(12) = number of stitches you should have at the end of the round/row
( )*6 = repeat whatever is between the brackets the number of times stated

Head
R 1: 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2: inc*6 (12)
R 3: (1 sc, inc)*6 (18)
R 4: (2 sc, inc)*6 (24)
R 5: (3 sc, inc)*6 (30)
R 6: (4 sc, inc)*6 (36)
R 7-12: 36 sc (6 rows)
R 13: (4 sc, dec)*6 (30)
R 14: (3 sc, dec)*6 (24)
R 15: (2 sc, dec)*6 (18)
R 16: (1 sc, dec)*6 (12)
R 17: dec*6 (6)
F.o.

Legs (make 2)
R 1: 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2: inc*6 (12)
R 3-5: 12 sc (3 rows)
Don’t cut the yarn when you will finish the second leg!

R 6: From second leg: 2 ch, join with the first leg, 12 sc on the firs leg, 2 ch, 12 sc on the second leg (28)

Continue crocheting the body in the round:
R 7-11: 28 sc (5 rows)
(1 sc, dec)*repeat to the end, closing the hole.
F.o. and leave a long tail for sewing.

Sew up the hole between legs.

Sew the feet together with some stitches.

Arms (make 2)
R 1: 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2-6: 6 sc (5 rows)
F.o. and leave a long tail for sewing.

Ears (make 2)
R 1: 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2: 6 sc
F.o. and leave a long tail for sewing.

Bow
Make 4 ch.
R 1: From the 2nd ch from hook: 3 sc, 1 turning chain
R 2-5: 3 sc, 1 turning chain
R 6: 3 sc
F.o.

Wrap the middle of the bow with yarn a couple of times and sew to the head.

Embroider mouth, nose and eyebrows.
Tint cheeks using dry pastel crayon.

More Amigurumi Bear Ideas:

Crochet your own lying bear with this easy to follow amigurumi pattern. To make this cute bear you will need 2.0 mm crochet hook and YarnArt Jeans yarn. The finished amigurumi bear is about 22 cm (8.7″) long.

Materials:

• Yarn: YarnArt Jeans or Alize Cotton Gold Hobby
• Hook size: 2.0 mm
• Safety eyes
• Black embroidery floss or yarn for nose
• Fiberfill

Abbreviations:
R = row
mc = magic circle (magic ring)
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
inc = 2 sc in the next stitch
dec = single crochet 2 stitches together
(12) = number of stitches you should have at the end of the round/row
(…) x6 = repeat whatever is between the brackets the number of times stated

Muzzle-head-body
Muzzle, head and body of the lying bear are crocheted as one part.
With beige yarn:
R 1: 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2: (inc) x6 (12)
R 3: (1 sc, inc) x6 (18)
R 4: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24)
R 5: 24 sc
R 6: (3 sc, inc) x6 (30)
R 7: 30 sc
R 8: (4 sc, inc) x6 (36)
R 9-11: 36 sc (3 rows)
Change to brown yarn:
R 12: 12 sc, (inc, 1 sc) x3, (1 sc, inc) x3, 12 sc (42)
R 13: 12 sc, (inc, 2 sc) x3, (2 sc, inc) x3, 12 sc (48)
R 14: (7 sc, inc) x6 (54)
R 15-16: 54 sc (2 rows)
R 17: (8 sc, inc) x6 (60)
R 18-26: 60 sc (9 rows)
R 27: (9 sc, inc) x6 (66)
R 28: (10 sc, inc) x6 (72)
R 29: 72 sc
Continue crocheting the body in stripes.
R 30-31: with pink yarn: 72 sc (2 rows)
R 32: with natural yarn: (11 sc, inc) x6 (78)
R 33: 78 sc
R 34-35: with pink yarn: 78 sc (2 rows)
R 36: with natural yarn: (12 sc, inc) x6 (84)
R 37: 84 sc
R 38-39: with pink yarn: 84 sc (2 rows)
R 40: with natural yarn: (13 sc, inc) x6 (90)
R 41: 90 sc
R 42-43: with pink yarn: 90 sc (2 rows)
R 44-45: with natural yarn: 90 sc (2 rows)
R 46-47: with pink yarn: 90 sc (2 rows)
R 48-49: with natural yarn: 90 sc (2 rows)
R 50-51: with pink yarn: 90 sc (2 rows)
Change to brown yarn:
R 52-56: 90 sc (5 rows)
R 57: (13 sc, dec) x6 (84)
R 58: 84 sc
R 59: (12 sc, dec) x6 (78)
R 60: 78 sc
R 61: (11 sc, dec) x6 (72)
R 62: 72 sc
R 63: (10 sc, dec) x6 (66)
R 64: (9 sc, dec) x6 (60)
R 65: (8 sc, dec) x6 (54)
R 66: (7 sc, dec) x6 (48)
R 67: (6 sc, dec) x6 (42)
R 68: (5 sc, dec) x6 (36)
R 69: (4 sc, dec) x6 (30)
R 70: (3 sc, dec) x6 (24)
R 71: (2 sc, dec) x6 (18)
R 72: (1 sc, dec) x6 (12)
R 73: (dec) x6 (6)
F.o.
Legs (make 2)
With brown yarn:
R 1: 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2: (inc) x6 (12)
R 3: (1 sc, inc) x6 (18)
R 4: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24)
R 5-9: 24 sc (5 rows)
R 10: (6 sc, dec) x3 (21)
R 11: 21 sc
R 12: (5 sc, dec) x3 (18)
R 13-14: 18 sc (2 rows)
Stuff gently with fiberfill.
Fold top of leg flat and 8 sc through both sides across + 1 sl st.
F.o. and leave a long tail for sewing.

Sew legs to the body between R 54 and R 55.

Arms (make 2)
With brown yarn:
R 1: 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2: (inc) x6 (12)
R 3: (1 sc, inc) x6 (18)
R 4: 18 sc
R 5: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24)
R 6-9: 24 sc (4 rows)
Continue crocheting in stripes.
R 10: with natural yarn: (6 sc, dec) x3 (21)
R 11: 21 sc
R 12: with pink yarn: (5 sc, dec) x3 (18)
R 13: 18 sc
R 14: with natural yarn: 18 sc
Stuff gently with fiberfill.
Fold top of arm flat and 8 sc through both sides across + 1 sl st.
F.o. and leave a long tail for sewing.

Sew arms to the body between R 32 and R 33.Ears (make 2)
With brown yarn:
R 1: 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2: (inc) x6 (12)
R 3: (1 sc, inc) x6 (18)
R 4-5: 18 sc (2 rows)
R 6: 17 sc, 1 sl st
Don’t stuff.
F.o. and leave a long tail for sewing.

Sew ears to the head.

Tail
With brown yarn:
R 1: 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2: (inc) x6 (12)
R 3: (1 sc, inc) x6 (18)
R 4-5: 18 sc (2 rows)
R 6: 17 sc, 1 sl st
Stuff with fiberfill.
F.o. and leave a long tail for sewing.

Sew tail to the body.

More Amigurumi Bear Ideas:

Materials:

• Alize Bella yarn, 50 g/180 m (100% cotton)
• 1.5 mm crochet hook
• 2 mm glass beards for eyes
• Black embroidery floss
• Pink dry pastel crayon
• Sewing needle and scissors
• Fiberfill

Abbreviations:
R = row
mc = magic circle
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
inc = 2 sc in the next stitch
dec = single crochet 2 stitches together
F.o. = finish off
(12) = number of stitches you should have at the end of the round/row
( )*6 = repeat whatever is between the brackets the number of times stated

Head
R 1: 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2: inc*6 (12)
R 3: (1 sc, inc)*6 (18)
R 4: (2 sc, inc)*6 (24)
R 5: (3 sc, inc)*6 (30)
R 6: (4 sc, inc)*6 (36)
R 7-12: 36 sc (6 rows)
R 13: (4 sc, dec)*6 (30)
R 14: (3 sc, dec)*6 (24)
R 15: (2 sc, dec)*6 (18)
R 16: (1 sc, dec)*6 (12)
R 17: dec*6 (6)
F.o.

Legs (make 2)
R 1: 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2: inc*6 (12)
R 3-5: 12 sc (3 rows)
Don’t cut the yarn when you will finish the second leg!

R 6: From second leg: 2 ch, join with the first leg, 12 sc on the firs leg, 2 ch, 12 sc on the second leg (28)

Continue crocheting the body in the round:
R 7-11: 28 sc (5 rows)
(1 sc, dec)*repeat to the end, closing the hole.
F.o. and leave a long tail for sewing.

Sew up the hole between legs.

Sew the feet together with some stitches.

Arms (make 2)
R 1: 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2-6: 6 sc (5 rows)
F.o. and leave a long tail for sewing.

Ears (make 2)
R 1: 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2: 6 sc
F.o. and leave a long tail for sewing.

Bow
Make 4 ch.
R 1: From the 2nd ch from hook: 3 sc, 1 turning chain
R 2-5: 3 sc, 1 turning chain
R 6: 3 sc
F.o.

Wrap the middle of the bow with yarn a couple of times and sew to the head.

Embroider mouth, nose and eyebrows.
Tint cheeks using dry pastel crayon.

More Amigurumi Bear Ideas: